
PIRATES CODE
In 2012, filmmaker and photographer Ben Ditto, and professional climber Mason Earle equipped an immaculate...
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Je trouve que la résistance de la boucle d'assurage reste un sujet pertinent et je voulais remettre ça sur le devant de la scène, surtout que je reçois encore des e-mails de personnes qui me demandent des infos sur la résistance des boucles d'assurage et sur le moment où il faut retirer un harnais. Ci-dessous, je fais de mon mieux pour répondre à quelques-unes de ces questions, tout en posant probablement encore plus de questions, et pour fournir quelques données super expérimentales, non officielles, sur les boucles d'assurage que mon équipe QC et moi avons réalisées.
CE requirements: The CE required testing is a bit difficult to describe, but basically, the belay loop must withstand 15 kN for a period of 3 minutes.
Actual Black Diamond test data: Though our inline batch test rating is 3372 lbf, we regularly see belay loops test to over 6000 lbf, with a historical average of over 5000 lbf. * Note: I've tested several other manufacturers' belay loops and they all are in the same ballpark for ultimate strength.
How long should a harness last?
Again, from the Black Diamond Harness Instructions:
Care and Maintenance :
Storage and Transport:
Factors that reduce the lifespan:
Inspect your harness for signs of damage and wear before and after each use. It is vitally important that your harness be in good condition. A damaged harness must be retired immediately.
Retire a harness immediately if:
Below are some photos of the different belay loops I tested (before they were pulled to failure) and their tested values.
A Final WordIs this incident going to cause every climber out there to start wanting two belay loops, or tying a backup webbing belay loop in their current harness or throw their harness away altogether and buy a new one immediately? It shouldn't. Reputable manufacturer's make burly harnesses—bottom line—and don't forget that there are some negatives/concerns about using two belay loops at once in some situations (i.e. tri-axial loading carabiners, etc.)—not good.
Harnesses, and belay loops in particular are super strong for sure, but we can't forget that gear does wear out. Every climber is responsible to know the history of his or her gear and act accordingly. When people ask me about worn gear, or gear that's been dropped, or has undergone a strange or peculiar event, I always have to play the conservative card of "when in doubt, retire it"—because the last thing you want to be thinking of in the back of your mind when you're 20 feet above your last piece of sketchy gear is... "geez, I wonder if that's that biner that I dropped that time," or "I sure hope my harness is in good enough shape to withstand this monster whipper I'm about to take." It's not worth having to worry about—I personally have a hard enough time worrying about trying NOT to fall!
Climb safe,
Kolin Powick
~50% cut in belay loop
~75% cut through—both sides—2918 lbf:
~90% cut through
2 of 4 tacks cut—3970 lbf:
All tacks heavily abraded across file surface—5280 lbf
All tacks heavily abraded across file surface—5338 lbf:
All tacks heavily abraded across file surface—7429 lbf:
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