
BABSI FLASHES FREE RIDER
A film documenting the first flash ascent of El Capitan by BD Athletes Babsi Zangerl...
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I just got back from a month of volunteering at the Khumbu Climbing Center in Nepal. It was quite an experience to say the least. Crushing, however, was looking at all the amazing Himalayan peaks all day and not being able to climb any of them—I guess I'll just have to go back.
The stunner of course was Ama Dablam—just have a look—enough said. One of the Nepali instructors had guided Ama Dablam 18 times, so naturally I was grilling him for beta: not too high (6,812 meters / 22,349 ft), not too cold, climb it in the fall, kinda crowded, interesting and varied climbing, some fixed lines. Fixed lines? I immediately wondered what they used, what diameter, how heavy it was, how long it stayed in-situ, how it was fixed on the mountain, etc.
Ironically, as I arrive jet-lagged back in the office last week, one of the other engineers here here in the lab had a section of some sketchy looking rope on his desk. It turns ou that his buddy guided Ama Dablam last fall and took some of the fixed line off the mountain and sent it over so we could have a look and do some impromptu testing. Thanks to Peter Anderson for thinking of us, for the photos and congratulations on a great summit.
All tests were simple slow-pull tests to failure in our trusty tensile testers. Values shown are ultimate strength in that particular configuration and where the failure occured. Just for point of reference, a sewn sling must meet 4946 lbf to be CE certified.
We haven't really done enough testing or know enough about the actual usage in order to draw any firm conclusions but what I can say is:
There you have it.
Be safe out there,
KP
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