Ah, summer in the alpine.

For a climber, there is nothing better. Alpenglow, early mornings, and pitch after pitch of wind-swept stone. Long approaches, the complexity of overnight gear, and the need for backpacking know-how make successful climbing missions into the alpine all the sweeter. There are many ways to make these kinds of trips harder on oneself, and that’s where we come in. Being a gear nerd is a real asset when it comes to alpine rock climbing—the weight of your pack, what you decide to bring vs. leave behind, and a few small add-ons can make or break a climbing trip into the hills.

In this article, we’ll start with climbing gear and then get into the weeds on the supporting gear that will make your time on the trail a lot more enjoyable. That way, by the time you arrive at the base of the first pitch, you’re feeling spry and ready for the sharp end.

THE RACK

Let's start with climbing gear. Since these heavy items won’t be used right away, you’ll probably put them at the bottom of your pack. If you’re headed deep into the backcountry, you will want the lightest possible rack. A double set of Ultralight Camalots in the hand sizes and a double set of Z4s in the smaller sizes is our ideal rack for most mountain objectives. Then, throw in a grip of Miniwire Alpine Quickdraws, maybe 8 to 10, plus 4 to 6 Miniwire Quickdraws for rope management purposes. For personal gear, we recommend bringing an ATC Guide, a double-length or quad-length sling for anchor material, Crack Gloves (either the Crag Gloves or the Stone Gloves) for rappelling, plus a prusik and an extra locking carabiner or two (one for clipping off approach shoes). This covers the basics, but these items can be fine-tuned as you gain experience and personal preference.

The Solution Guide and Solution harnesses are both lightweight, versatile options for long alpine routes. In terms of climbing shoes, the Aspect Pro is our go-to for granite climbing, thanks to its ankle protection and stiff sole. The Blitz 20 is a good on-route pack that you can easily pack down and stash for the hike in.

HIKE IN COMFORT

If there’s one thing we’ve learned from decades of backcountry climbing trips, there’s no use crushing yourself on the hike in. This means it's important to get a pack that fits comfortably and carries well, shoes that you can walk in, and trekking poles. If you’re going on a multi-day trip with lots of gear, it might not be a bad idea to get a big pack, like the Mission 75, so that you don’t have to worry too much about packing perfectly. If you want a pack for a quick mission, the Speed 40 or the Beta Light 45 are both great options. Footwear is the next most important gear item when it comes to comfort. The Technician Pro is our do-it-all approach shoe that can scramble with ease while still providing cushion on the trail. Finally, trekking poles—we recommend either the Distance Z or the Pursuit Carbon FLZ—are an absolute must when carrying heavy loads.

ADDITIONAL GEAR

After a long hike in and a long day on the way, sleep is vital to recovering for another day of sending. The tent you choose to bring will depend on where you’re headed and how long you plan to stay out. For most quick alpine climbing missions, the Firstlight is the gold standard. This tent is compact, easy to set up, and can handle severe weather. However, it is not designed for heavy rain, since it is a single-wall tent, which is a factor when purchasing a tent. The Betalight is a great option for a subalpine base camp, say at a lake or somewhere that’s a comfortable hang. Some climbers love the Mega Snow 4-Person, which also works well as a base camp tent in glaciated areas. A solid headlamp is also crucial, along with all your personal camping gear (sleeping bag, pad, cookware, etc.).

SNOW AND OTHER APPROACH COMPLICATION

So much of the complexity of alpine climbing comes in the approach. Snow, ice, scree, talus, route-finding, the list goes on. If you can navigate through all these challenges and get to the climbing itself, you’re well set up for success.

There are a few crucial pieces of gear that can turn a harrowing, snowy approach into something that’s no big deal. For minor snow fields, a pair of Distance Spike Traction Devices will be enough to inspire confidence and keep you upright. If you’re in the Bugaboos or somewhere that requires glacier travel to access the base of the climbing, then you’re better off with the Neve Strap Crampons over your approach shoes. Depending on the steepness and complexity, an ice axe may also be useful; otherwise, trekking poles will provide enough security to get you through.

KEY TAKEAWAYS

Being a gear nerd pays off in the alpine: Pack weight, smart gear choices, and a few key pieces of climbing gear are the difference between arriving at the base feeling ready to send or starting an epic.

Build a light but complete rack: A double set of ultralight cams in hand sizes, smaller nuts in doubles, and a handful of alpine quickdraws covers most mountain objectives—then fine-tune as you log more days in the hills.

Don't underestimate the approach: A well-fitting pack, comfortable approach shoes, and trekking poles aren't glamorous, but they're what keep your legs under you when it's time to climb. There's no prize for suffering on the trail.

Sleep is part of the send: Choosing the right shelter for your objective—whether that's a bomber single-wall for a quick push or a roomier base camp setup—is a real factor in how the next day goes.

The approach is where a trip gets complicated: Snow, talus, route-finding, and shifting terrain demand their own gear considerations; traction devices or crampons for snowfields and glacier travel can turn a slog into a breeze.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Jane Jackson is a writer and editor based in the Sierra Nevada. She loves granite and being in the mountains, and has spent most of her adult life obsessed with rock climbing in all of its forms.