Ah, the hallowed walls of Yosemite Valley. Rounding the bend on Highway 120, the expanse of the Valley floor drops away, and El Capitan and Half Dome reveal their impressive vertical relief.
Like any true proving ground, the Valley is both inspiring and intimidating. From the moment you drive into the park, it can feel like a constant game of logistics, whether you’re trying to figure out where to sleep or what to climb. I’ve been climbing in Yosemite for over a decade (not long in the lifetime of a climber) and used to call the Valley home, but I still feel the same pang of intimidation and excitement when I drop through those tunnels. Over the years, I’ve had numerous experiences and epics; I’ve tried a lot of different tactics, and this information is just some of what I’ve learned so far.
The routes in Yosemite are big, complicated, and overwhelming at first. It’s easy to get bogged down in mindbendingly complicated tactics, which usually results in a bail, sometimes on the grand stage of the Valley itself: El Capitan. There’s a reason climbing teams spend entire days laying out their gear, pawing through carabiners, packs, and cams, weighing the options, debating what is worth bringing and what can be left behind. Beyond looking cool and feeling like a Royal Robbins, this ritual exists because the right rack can make or break an ascent.
This article isn’t meant to replace that process, but it will at least help you show up with the right gear to lay out on your ratty tarp in the parking lot and help you iron out some of the kinks before you get on the wall. Hopefully, that way, you’ll arrive in the Valley with the right tools, though it's up to you to figure out how to use them. We’re not covering everything here, and to be honest, these recommendations are a bare minimum. It’s not a bad idea to bring a first aid kit, a set of nuts, some extra cord, and other safety items when you’re going big. Being self-sufficient and taking care of yourself and your partner is more important than sending!
One of the best things about climbing in Yosemite is that you can choose what kind of day you want to have: Do you want a casual outing? A day of cragging? Or do you want to move quickly and cover lots of ground? Maybe you want to spend a few days on a wall—anything is possible! That means there are many different gear configurations.
LONG FREE ROUTES
There is no place that the old saying, “rope, rack, shirt on your back,” is more well-suited for than Yosemite Valley. It’s usually warm, the weather is usually stable, and the routes often have chimneys or off-widths—meaning the less stuff on your harness, the better. And getting thirsty is a rite of passage. All that is to say: it can be pretty liberating to go light and leave the pack on the ground.
Let's start with climbing gear first. For routes in this category, a standard rack with offsets will typically cover you. That means doubles from .2 to #3, and sometimes a #4. I like to bring a set of offset cams on most climbs in the Valley, since they fit well into pinscars and other funky placements. Ten or so alpine draws and a few lightweight quickdraws are also useful, since pitches are often long and rope drag can be a real issue.
In terms of personal gear, it depends on your preference, but the Infinity Cord (although don’t ask Jim Herson about the usefulness of a double-length sling…), an ATC, an adjustable PAS, some rappel gloves like the Stone or Transition gloves, a few locking carabiners, and a small water bottle that can be clipped off to your harness is enough for most multi-pitches. I also like to bring a little stuff sack for snacks, but some people just cram a few bars in their pockets. It’s smart to carry a light windshell, like the Alpine Start Hoody, which is low profile and can be stashed on your harness. Another safety item is a headlamp. It’s not uncommon to get stuck out after dark in Yosemite, and having a decent headlamp can save you from an unplanned bivy.
On harder climbs and routes where you may need a tag line for rappelling, it can be nice to tag a small bag, since you’re bringing a second rope anyway. That way, you can have access to all the creature comforts: snacks, ample water, approach shoes, and layers. In this situation, you’re more focused on the difficulty of the climbing, rather than moving fast, which means more time at belays and a few more comfort items.
WALLS IN-A-DAY
Although climbing a wall in a day feels like a massive step up from climbing a long free route, the gear you need is similar in many ways to the free climbing configurations discussed above. Here, it's all about moving fast and being efficient. If you’re climbing the Nose in a Day, for example, and are a normal person (i.e., you’re not trying to set any speed records), it’s typical for the second to jumar with a pack. That way, you can bring enough water and snacks for the whole day. In addition to the standard rack and offsets, walls require you to bring some sort of adjustable daisy, lightweight ladders for aiding, plus Ascenders and speed stirrups for the follower.
BIG WALL-STYLE
Here’s where things can really get complicated. Climbing big walls efficiently takes practice, but the right gear can help you start with a solid foundation. The type of route you’re after will dictate what kind of extra climbing gear you’ll need beyond the standard rack listed above. Offsets are definitely a must. Additionally, if you’re aid climbing, you may need to bring an assortment of beaks, hooks, and other esoteric gear specific to these arts.
There is a lot of information out there about hauling setups, which require specialized gear, so we’re not going to get into the weeds on that stuff here. Instead, we’re covering only the Black Diamond big wall essentials. Haul bags, a haul line, and a swivel are all necessary for a smooth vertical camping experience. Depending on your route, you’ll also need a portaledge—the Perch makes for a plush bivy. You’ll also need jumars, ladders, and adjustable daisies, especially if you’re doing an aid wall. Even when free climbing, it’s useful to have a set of jumars and ladders, but not required, obviously.
VALLEY ESSENTIALS
This is a list of items that I don’t leave home without when I’m headed to Yosemite. This isn’t a complete list, but it includes the basics I’d bring on most Yosemite outings.
Jane Jackson is a writer and editor based in the Sierra Nevada. She loves granite and being in the mountains, and has spent most of her adult life obsessed with rock climbing in all of its forms.
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