Seb Bouin: Climbing DNA

Photographer: Lena Drapella Athlete: Seb Bouin

Seb Bouin: Climbing DNA

Black Diamond Athlete Seb Bouin shares his thoughts on sending his longest standing project to date, a route that may be the world’s second 9c (5.15d).

THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2022

Bolting & Discovering the DreamLine

I bolted this route during the summer 2019.

After making the first ascent of “La Rage Adam” (9b/+), I wanted another challenge, something even harder. I told myself that I needed a route that was really above my level so I could push myself.

I needed a line that would motivate me to go back again and again, something beautiful, impressive, in an inspiring location.

La Ramirole was the perfect place for that. It's a cliff that is in condition most of the year, not far from my house. The place is magical and makes you want to try hard. It's a cliff I know by heart. I've been climbing there for more than 10 years. If there is a place to take on such a challenge, it is here.

Looking closely at the wall, I saw that there was a line right in the middle, through the huge cave, in a section with few holds. I told myself I had to try, even if it might not work. When I put the bolts in, I could see some holds. But I really didn't know what to think. The overhang was so big.

The first few tries were laborious. I didn't understand anything. It seemed too big, too hard, too desperate.

At the end of the 2019 season, I tried to find methods and understand the line.

2020

I tried the route in July, August, September, October, and November. 

2021

I tried the route in July, August, September, October, and November. 

2022

I did it on my second trip this spring.

I worked the route first during a 14-day trip in early April. I came back home to train for a week and returned for a second trip.

I sent on the third day of the 2022 second trip. 

That’s why I would love to invite the world’s top climbers to come and give DNA a go.

About 25 days for Mamichula 9b.

About 50 days for Beyond Intégral 9b/+.

DNA is clearly the route I’ve spent the most time on.

Not only was I spending time on the route, but I was physically preparing myself for every session.

It wasn't just going to the cliff and trying to see if it could work. I came with the strong intention of being ready.

DNA is the route I put the most effort into.

The last element to consider is the climbing style. La Ramirole is the cliff that suits me best, as I've been climbing this style for more than 10 years.

The fact that DNA is 100% my climbing style should be considered in the rating.