EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW

BD athletes Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher free the Nose (VI 5.14a).

On November 23, BD Athletes Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher became the 8th and 9th individuals to free climb the Nose (VI 5.14a). Considering this is Babsi’s 5th El Cap free route, and Jacopo’s 4th, the Euro duo has once again proven themselves the reigning “power couple” of the big stone. Check out this exclusive interview on their ascent.

Solidifying their place as one of the undisputed best big-wall free-climbing teams in history, BD Athletes Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher recently topped out El Cap once again, this time having claimed the 8thand 9thascents of the Nose (VI 5.14a) on El Cap. First freed in 1993 by the legend Lynn Hill, the Nose has since become the most iconic big-wall free route in the world. Also, one of the most difficult. For years, the infamous crux pitch, known as the Changing Corners, rebuffed all would be suitors. In fact, because Lynn’s intricate sequence on the blank corner seemed so elusive to others, the crux earned the nickname the “Houdini Pitch.”

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO CLIMB THE NOSE?

Babsi:

It was always a big dream of mine to climb the Nose. It’s just such a historical climb. I remember when I first read Lynn Hill’s autobiography Climbing Free. I got so inspired about this magical line straight through the central section of El Capitan that I’ve always wanted to try, at least once in my life! KP [BD’s climbing category director] was sending us good vibes almost every single day on our ground up push. I got messages that I should smile before I start to climb. Somehow that worked! Thanks, KP—master beta!!!

How does the Nose stack up in difficulty compared to your other sends on El Cap?

Babsi:

The Nose is hard to compare to the other routes we have climbed on El Cap. For example, on the Nose we had to climb two really hard pitches and on Magic Mushroom the amount of hard pitches were around 15. The two crux pitches on the Nose where really challenging to us, however. The Great Roof and the Changing Corners—those, I found really hard. I think the Changing Corners is harder than the Great Roof. Both crux pitches are really insecure climbing. You can slip everywhere, so it is really hard to control.

It basically all comes down to the Changing Corners and the Great Roofs. For example, on Magic Mushroom you have to climb about 15 pitches between 5.13- and 5.14-, which I personally think is more challenging. Zodiac was also sustained.

The two crux pitches of the Nose are very hard though, especially the Changing Corners; the climbing is very insecure, hard and it’s very tricky to find out the right beta. It’s impossible to be 100% sure to climb it, even if you get everything perfectly dialed.

HOW DID YOU WORK ON THE ROUTE? GROUND-UP OR TOP DOWN?

Babsi:

We first started to try the Nose in autumn 2018. In the beginning we tried ground-up, but we were forced to wait for four hours on pitch 2. Not the best of starts! We made it to the Sickle Ledge and had to bivi there, which is incredible, because up to this point you’ve only climbed a few pitches! So, we were already a day behind our schedule. We got to work the Great Roof a little and topped out the next day. We didn’t have enough time to work on the hard pitches. So, we decided to rappel in from the top.

EXPLAIN YOUR “TEAM FREE” TACTICS. YOU EACH LED THE HARD PITCHES? ISN’T THIS DIFFICULT LOGISTICALLY?

Babsi:

Our style is always the same. If we are able to onsight a single pitch and it feels easy, then it is OK to climb it follow it free on top rope.

However, we did all the pitches on El Cap harder than 5.12- both on lead. Of course, that takes more time because after the first sends the pitch, you have to get back down for belaying the other and jumaring up after both have sent on lead.

THE INFAMOUS CHANGING CORNERS (5.14A)—HOW HARD WAS THIS PITCH FOR BOTH OF YOU? SO MANY PEOPLE HAVE TRIED AND FAILED ON THIS TRICKY PITCH.

Babsi:

The Changing Corners pitch can be a real heart breaker. It is so insecure. You can slip anywhere on the crux and every single fall adds some extra pressure. The key for us was to stay relaxed and enjoy the climbing, do everything right, be in the moment and just think about the next move. We tried to place our feet very precisely!

WHAT HAPPENED TO MAKE EVERYTHING CLICK ON THIS ASCENT?

Babsi:

We were lucky with the weather. It was definitely the last chance of the year. Right after our ascent it started to snow. On the last two days on the wall it was really windy and cold. All the climbers had already topped out the wall or a few bailed and we were alone up there on the Nose. That was kind of cool. If you want to climb such a route as a team it is always a bit more challenging because you can’t take it for granted that it goes well for both of you! You wait for each other and support each other. But when everything clicks so perfectly for both, that’s the greatest “happy ending” we could wish for.

BABSI, THE NOSE WAS FIRST FREE CLIMBED BY ANOTHER WOMAN, LYNN HILL. DID THIS ADD ANYTHING TO THE ROUTE FOR YOU?

Babsi:

Even today it’s something quite unbelievable. Lynn Hill is such an inspiration to me. If I watch videos of her climbing on the Nose, it looks so smooth and easy! But it isn’t! What she did back in the day was one of the biggest milestones in climbing, ever. Back then many climbers thought she’d done it simply because of her small fingers. But this isn’t true. She was/is just incredibly strong!

I always looked up to Lynn Hill and got very inspired by her climbing career. So, it makes me a little proud to have climbed such an iconic Lynn Hill masterpiece.

FINALLY, WHAT’S NEXT?

Babsi:

So, KP set my next goal—on-sighting the free rider!! Jacopo just doesn’t know anything about this idea (until now) haha. I hope we will not slip on the free blast!

I think it would already a big goal just to on sight the Monster!! That would make me happy!!!

Jacopo:

Really? I didn’t know that! I would be very motivated for Dihedral Wall (VI5.14a), but onsighting Freerider (VI 5.13a) sounds good too!