WE ARE A FAMILY OF LIFERS.

My wife, Anne, and I have been climbing for 40 years. Our children, Kara and Connor, now young adults, have climbed most of their walking lives. We’re weekend warriors recharging in the mountains after a hectic week of work, school, and life, often on Yosemite’s magical granite although any area with climbable rock makes us happy.

I’m now known, if known at all, as the old guy who sometimes belays Connor Herson on his wild El Capitan adventures. But before I was old, I was sometimes known, among a very tiny sliver of internet climbers, as the guy who writes trip reports about climbing in Yosemite with his young children.

I certainly didn’t intend to undermine birth control in the small niche group of 30s something internet trip-report-reading climbers who are thinking of starting a family. But here we are. A worrisome number of complete strangers have confided in me over the years that the trip reports with the kids weighed in their decision to have children. And if we’re being totally honest, only trad dads have ever said that. It’s weird to even have to type this, but climbing the Northwest Face of Half Dome in winter with a middle schooler is completely disqualifying for any role in anyone’s family planning!

It’s not disqualifying for the questionable risk assessment. It’s disqualifying because we happen to have climbing-obsessed children who love climbing anything in any condition. Delusions of future little rope guns in family planning is like banking on the lottery in financial planning. It’s cool if it happens but it is not a sound strategy.

The only certainty with children is that their interests can and will change. Our kids dove into all sorts of activities—soccer, swimming, flag football, flute, piano, ballet, theater, ice skating, gymnastics, cross country, track, rugby, climbing team, etc. It was thrilling to watch their passions grow even if it did torpedo our climbing time. However, like skiers with fresh powder or alpinists with a Patagonia weather window, when a kiddie window—a toddler nap or, later, a break in the activity schedule—appeared, we pounced. No more optimizing sleep or nutrition for performance. Grades and projects were cute distant memories. It was now all about pitch count. Climbing might have changed but it was no less fun. Then, as kids became passionate little climbers, we started spending weekends raging on Yosemite’s finest and climbing changed again, this time to a level of fun I could never have imagined.

It was a gift watching the kids’ emotional and personal growth as they navigated the ups and downs of their other various activities. But we were gumby spectators. It was like watching Olympic figure skating. We might marvel at the raw athleticism and artistry of the skaters, but without the squeal and the over-the-top excitement of the color commentary, we are clueless to distinguish a double salchow from a triple axel. In contrast, we could viscerally relate to the kids’ climbing, both their abilities, which always stunned us, and their mental and physical climbing breakthroughs. It made family climbing even that much more intimate.

The greatest and most unexpected parenting joy, by far, was the unabashed pride in getting completely smoked by the kids. Even after the kids blew by us on sport climbs and in the gym, I still had the pipsqueaks on Yosemite granite. When Connor was working on freeing El Capitan’s iconic Nose, I would still lead the non-crux pitches—as I was faster on the easier terrain and with big wall logistics—giving him more time to work the cruxes. I remember the exact day and the exact pitch when I was obsoleted. His climbing so completely shot past mine that now my climbing was hindering his growth. I instantly went from guide and mentor to support jug-monkey. I would never have predicted that being put out to pasture would be such a proud moment!

Having climbing-obsessed children is the hand jammies of parenting. 

One cool, unexpected benefit of being a climbing family is that you cheat on the challenging adolescent years. Having climbing-obsessed children is the hand jammies of parenting. It’s aid but, wow, does it make it fun and easy! We never had the stereotypical parent-teenager tension. We never had to nag them to do or not to do something. We were a team that planned, and problem solved together, both on climbs and in life.

Climbing gives us the gift of spending an extraordinary amount of time having a blast and growing closer to our children. Those long Yosemite and Tuolumne days with the kids shredding are the memories that will keep us smiling well into our doddering old age.

⎯Jim Herson

CONNOR'S KIT

CLIMB ESSENTIALS

Connor's essential gear and apparel.

Camalot™ Z4

Regular price $99.95 USD
Sale price $99.95 USD Regular price $99.95

Camalot™ Ultralight

Regular price $119.95 - $159.95
Sale price $129.95 USD Regular price $129.95
Octane
ATHLETE PICK
Octane
White
Pewter
Black
Envy Green

Vapor Helmet

Regular price $169.95 USD
Sale price $169.95 USD Regular price $169.95

Camalot™ Z4 Offset

Regular price $109.95 USD
Sale price $109.95 USD Regular price $109.95
Carbon
Athlete Pick
Carbon

Men's Solution Harness - Past Season

Regular price $79.95 USD
Sale price $79.95 USD Regular price $84.95
Black
Best Seller
Black
Clay
Dark Moss
Off White
Carbon
Fig

Men's Dirtbag Pants

Regular price $99.00 USD
Sale price $99.00 USD Regular price $99.00
Tundra-Black
Black-Black

Men's Coefficient LT Hybrid Hoody

Regular price $229.00 USD
Sale price $229.00 USD Regular price $229.00
Charcoal
Tundra
Moonstone
Black
Clay

Men's Sequence Pants

Regular price $99.00 USD
Sale price $99.00 USD Regular price $99.00
Alloy
Charcoal
Amber

Men's Distance Short Sleeve Tech Tee

Regular price $69.00 USD
Sale price $69.00 USD Regular price $69.00
Creek Blue
Tundra
Black
Indigo

Men's Engineered Diamond Pullover Hoody

Regular price $69.30 - $99.00 $99.00
Sale price $99.00 USD Regular price $99.00
Glacier

Men's Distance Short Sleeve Tech Tee - Past Season

Regular price $39.00 USD
Sale price $39.00 USD Regular price $65.00
Granola-Midnight Blue
Granola-Pine Smoke
Charcoal
Moonstone
Burnt Sienna
Black

Men's Sierra Shorts 8 in

Regular price $79.00 USD
Sale price $79.00 USD Regular price $79.00

MORE FROM CONNOR

Get to know Black Diamond Athlete Connor Herson

Born into a climbing family, Connor has been climbing for his entire life. Although best known for cutting edge trad and big wall ascents around North America, he enjoys practically any form of climbing.

Stay Humble: Connor Herson's Spring Quarter in the Valley

BD Athlete Connor Herson spent as many weekends as possible in the Valley this spring during a grueling quarter at Stanford. The objective? Ground up, in-a-day ascents.  

The Pirates Codes

In 2012, filmmaker and photographer Ben Ditto, and professional climber Mason Earle equipped an immaculate line in Tuolumne’s high country. But their attempts to free the route were thwarted when Mason’s life changed drastically. With the help of Connor Herson, Ditto and Mason found a way to keep the dream alive.

Connor Herson: Sending Blackbeard's Tears (5.14C Trad)

Watch Connor claim the coveted second ascent of this California testpiece.