
BABSI FLASHES FREE RIDER
A film documenting the first flash ascent of El Capitan by BD Athletes Babsi Zangerl...
Add $99.00 more to quality for free Shipping!
$0.00 USD
TUESDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2016
Ice climbers love gear, and they love talking about gear. Every time I’m out on the ice, the conversation usually goes from “so … you been getting out?,” to tools, crampons, boots and of course ice screws. “How are ice screws made?,” “How strong are they?” and “Do you guys test ice screws?”
Words: Kolin Powick, Video: Wagon Productions, Images: Tommy Chandler
Ice Screw Manufacturing
The short version is that the main body of the screw is machined from a tube of steel. A super slick machine basically turns the diameter and threads, then cuts the teeth and makes the flats, all in one setup. From there, the teeth are cleaned up, the screws are heat-treated to make them strong and durable, and they are plated so they don’t rust.
Ice Screw Manufacturing
The short version is that the main body of the screw is machined from a tube of steel. A super slick machine basically turns the diameter and threads, then cuts the teeth and makes the flats, all in one setup. From there, the teeth are cleaned up, the screws are heat-treated to make them strong and durable, and they are plated so they don’t rust.
The hangers are cut on our laser cutter from stainless steel, then formed and stamped. They too are heat treated, then assembled with the express knob, put onto the shaft of the screw and swaged into place.
Production Testing of Ice Screws
Once we’ve developed an ice screw and it’s gone through our rigorous Development and Field Testing programs, and has been certified, then we can begin production. Just like with all of our PPE (Personal Protective Equipment), we implement stringent in-line dimensional and strength tests during the production process (WIP, or Work in Process tests), as well as finished goods batch testing to ensure all products meet our requirements.
The production level tests for ice screws include:
—WIP TESTS
—BATCH TESTS
With all the research and development testing that goes into the design of a Black Diamond ice screw, as well as the certification process and production level testing, you can be sure that our ice screws are up to the task. With that said, however, you must remember that though a screw is strong, it’s only as strong as the ice it’s placed in. When I’m out climbing, I place screws … but the best way to stay safe, is to remember—DON’T fall.
A film documenting the first flash ascent of El Capitan by BD Athletes Babsi Zangerl...
A film documenting the first flash ascent of El Capitan by BD Athletes Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher.
BD Athletes Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher share their story of climbing one of the...
BD Athletes Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher share their story of climbing one of the world’s most mythical trad routes.
BD Athletes Aaron Mulkey and Yannick Glatthard take the new Hydra into the backcountry of...
BD Athletes Aaron Mulkey and Yannick Glatthard take the new Hydra into the backcountry of Montana in search of steep ice and mixed climbing.
Follow Dorian Densmore and Mya Akins for a month-long, exploratory mission in the Chugach Mountains.
Two BD legends walk into the Valley. What happens next? Watch and see.
With ski season kicking off, the QA Lab crew dives deep into the world of...
With ski season kicking off, the QA Lab crew dives deep into the world of electromagnetic interference and how it can affect backcountry safety.
Light is right, but steel is real. So, when it comes to ice screws, what’s...
Light is right, but steel is real. So, when it comes to ice screws, what’s the deal? In this QC Lab, Will Gadd and Matt Berry thread their way to the source of truth when it comes to aluminum vs. steel ice screws.
She was many things—a Stonemaster, an outdoor industry visionary, a physicist. A rock dropped into...
She was many things—a Stonemaster, an outdoor industry visionary, a physicist. A rock dropped into a pond that created ripples, affecting many lives and generations of climbers. This is the story of our unsung hero, our co-founder.
Go ahead, take the whip. You’ve got a trucker bolt just below. But wait …...
Go ahead, take the whip. You’ve got a trucker bolt just below. But wait … you sure about that? In this Gear Myths, Kolin “KP” Powick shares a recent close call, which resulted in an exploration of safety protocol when it comes to sport climbing.
The QC Lab team is joined by IFMGA Mountain Guide Mark Smiley to discuss the...
The QC Lab team is joined by IFMGA Mountain Guide Mark Smiley to discuss the subtle art of building, testing, and using snow anchors.
Follow these expert pointers on how to properly build out your very first trad rack.
A look into the technology and construction of an essential tool for hiking and trail...
A look into the technology and construction of an essential tool for hiking and trail running.
Find out from the experts at Black Diamond, the tips to find the best rock...
Find out from the experts at Black Diamond, the tips to find the best rock climbing harness for you.