A rope is more than just a piece of gear. It’s your lifeline, it connects you to the mountain, to your partner, and is the way you get back down to the ground at the end of the day. Coiling, belaying, stacking, and clipping—you end up spending a lot of time handling a rope while out climbing. With all that in mind, it’s important to have a rope you like. In this article, we’ll talk about the different kinds of ropes out there, the different diameters that are available, and reasons to choose one over another.
WHAT ARE ALL THESE ROPES FOR?
There are four main categories that almost all climbing ropes fall into.
The most common rope you’ll find out there is a single rope, which is exactly what it sounds like—a single rope that is used for climbing. Whether you’re cragging or multi-pitching, this is the most common cord used to stay attached to the wall. These ropes run from 8.8mm to 10.2mm, depending on your use.
Things get more complicated when it comes to twin, half, and double ropes. These ropes are used in situations where two ropes are used, and they usually have a smaller diameter (less than 8mm). Half and double ropes are commonly used in alpine climbing situations where the leader is placing ice screws or other marginal gear. Twin ropes are also used in the mountains most often, but are treated as a single rope. This means both ropes are clipped through every piece of protection, unlike half ropes, where the leader can decide which rope to clip to which piece to manage rope drag effectively.
Static ropes are the final category we’ll discuss here. It’s probably obvious, but you’re not going to be lead climbing on a static rope. These ropes are used for jugging and hauling fixed lines, usually in big wall climbing situations.
LENGTHS
So, should you buy a 60,70, or 80 meter rope? There are endless Mountain Project forums, debating the best rope length. But all you really need to think about is what situation you imagine using your rope most frequently.
For mountainous routes with long approaches and terrain that may have you unroping frequently, simul-climbing objectives, or multi-pitching when you’re bringing a tag line, a 60-meter rope is a great option. It’s also nice to use a 60m rope in the mountains because they are significantly lighter and easier to carry than a longer rope.
A 70-meter rope seems to be the standard for cragging and multi-pitching these days. Many rappels and pitches at the crag are set up to work with a 70m. Also, if you’re keen on linking pitches or want to use the rope as an anchor, having the extra rope is always useful. For most general use, a 70m rope is the ticket.
For certain crags, like sport climbing areas with long routes or Indian Creek’s endless splitters, an 80-meter rope is super useful. Plus, if you’re cragging a lot and taking lots of falls, an 80m is a good way to get more bang for your buck, as you can cut the ends off as you wear them out, then, voila, in no time, you’ll have a brand new 70m rope.
LET'S TALK DIAMETERS
Nowadays, any rope with a diameter of 9.5mm or above feels pretty thick. These ropes are your workhorses that are durable, confidence-inspiring, and built to last. The 9.6 Bipattern Dry is a great option for this type of rope. Its middle is easily identifiable because of the bipattern design, and it’s durable enough to withstand seasons of use at the crag. The 9.5 Static falls into this category, although it is designed for a specific use—hauling, ascending, or descending.
The BD 9.4 falls into the category of a medium diameter rope. This cord comes with a dry treatment or without, depending on what you imagine your use case will be. The 9.4 toes the line between lightweight performance and durability - you can rely on it all day long, but it won’t weigh you down when you’re giving burns on your project. If you are looking for an all-arounder that does just about everything, the 9.4 will be your pick.
If you’re looking for a true high-performance cord, the BD 8.8 Dry Rope is the ticket. This ultralight rope is built for redpoint burns, link-ups, and any situation where weight counts. It’s dry-treated, which adds some durability and allows for use in icy conditions, whether that’s your next mixed megaproj or a long route in the alpine where going light is key.
The skinniest cord we make is the 7.4 Dry, which is a dual-certified half and/or twin rope that can be used in either configuration, but must be used in pairs. These ropes come in either 60 or 70 meters, depending on your mountain use case.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
Rope Types Serve Different Purposes: There are four main categories of climbing ropes — single, half, twin/double, and static — each designed for specific climbing disciplines, from everyday cragging to alpine routes to big wall hauling.
Rope Length Depends on Your Use Case: 60-meter ropes suit weight-conscious objectives or shorter pitches, 70-meter ropes are the versatile standard for cragging and multi-pitching, and 80-meter ropes are ideal for long sport routes, Indian Creek splitters, or high-volume cragging where you can trim worn ends to extend the rope's life.
Diameter and the Durability-Weight Tradeoff: Thicker ropes (9.5mm+) prioritize durability and confidence for heavy use, mid-range diameters (~9.4mm) balance performance and longevity for all-around use, and thinner ropes (8.8mm and below) are optimized for weight savings on redpoints or alpine objectives.
Twin/Half Ropes for Specialized Use: Half and twin ropes are favored in alpine settings for managing rope drag and clipping marginal gear independently, while twin ropes must be clipped together through every piece of protection, functioning more like a single rope system.
Choosing the Right Rope Is a Personal Decision: Because climbers handle their rope constantly — coiling, belaying, clipping, rappelling — finding one that matches your style, discipline, and conditions is essential while on the wall.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Jane Jackson is a writer and editor based in the Sierra Nevada. She loves granite and being in the mountains, and has spent most of her adult life obsessed with rock climbing in all of its forms.
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