How to Build your first Trad Rack

Photographer: Tyler Roemer Location: Bend, Oregon

How To Build Your First Trad Rack

Follow these expert pointers on how to properly build out your very first trad rack.

Standard rack to 3”,” reads the topo. This simple phrase can lead to hours of discussion among climbing partners as to what gear is actually necessary for the proposed climb. Nuts or no nuts? An extra #3 Camalot or not? Off-sets? Triples in finger-size pieces since that’s what that one dude from Mountain Project recommended? Or maybe singles in hand-sized gear, as the other dude on Mountain Project recommended? Oftentimes, these racking-up conversations can spin out into hours-long debates that include input from the random passersby, especially if you’re sprawled out in the Super Crack parking lot.

Having your own rack is empowering and liberating, but it can feel a bit daunting when starting from scratch. There are many small decisions to make when building your rack that have to do with what your priorities are in climbing. Are you stoked on desert splitters? Feeling inspired by free climbing in Yosemite Valley? Maybe moving quickly in the mountains does it for you. The location and type of climbing you’re planning on doing will impact the type of gear that you have on your rack. Also factored in are weight, durability, size, and usefulness.

Trad Climbing is a Team Sport

Chances are, if you’ve decided to commit to building your own rack, you’ve already done a bit of trad climbing. Using other people’s gear is a great way to get familiar with all the different options out there so that you can make an informed decision when purchasing your own gear. It is also important to remember that you don’t have to buy every piece of gear right away; oftentimes, you and your partner will combine racks when you prepare for a climb.

On multi-pitch climbs or days spent cragging, gear can get mixed up and chaotic, so it is important to mark your new rack with paint or tape so that you can identify it easily. There are endless nuances to building your rack, but here are the basics to get you started.

The Basics

There are a few items that are staples on every seasoned trad climber’s harness that should be a part of your new rack. When multi-pitch climbing, it’s important to have some kind of anchor-building material like a double-length sling or a cordelette with a couple of carabiners. A personal anchor system with a locking carabiner or some other way of attaching yourself to the anchor is a good idea for multi-pitch climbs. It’s also key to have a nut tool to free Stoppers and stuck cams from cracks.

There are many other personal items that you’ll want to have on most routes, including a belay/rappel device, a prusik, a knife, and a few extra carabiners for carrying shoes and layers on your harness. Figuring out what you like to carry on multi-pitch routes takes time, experience, and trial and error, so these are just a few suggestions to get you started.

Standard Rack

A standard rack includes cams that fit in cracks that range from very tiny to fist-sized. Though the type of cam you buy depends on where you plan to climb, most trad climbers nowadays go for a set of Camalot Ultralights. If you are looking for something more durable, but heavier, the classic Camalot C4 is a good choice. A standard rack includes one of each size from .2 to #3. In the smaller sizes, there are more options, depending on what you are looking for. The Camalot Z4 is a good choice in these smaller sizes with its single stem that stays rigid in hand, but flexes once placed. The narrow head-width also makes them easier to place in tight constrictions. These features are very confidence-inspiring while placing smaller cams.

Off-Sets

In some locales—Yosemite Valley is a fine example—you’ll come across unique placements shaped by pin-scars. These less-than-splitter placements inspired the Camalot Z4 Offset, which can be used in constrictions and other non-uniform placements found in most natural fissures. A bit of a specialized piece, off-sets might not be an immediate addition to your rack but will come in handy down the line.

Wide Gear

Maybe you live near Vedauwoo or your daydreams are filled with off-widths and chimneys. In this case, you’ll probably want to have a few wide pieces of gear to protect those terrifying grovelfests. Black Diamond makesCamalots that run from #5 up to #8 which cover cracks that are about a knee’s width to a tight squeeze. Back in the day, these types of cracks were unprotected and thus required a bold mindset and lots of technique, but nowadays climbers are able to practice off-width skills without being horrifyingly run out. Yay!

Stoppers

Talk to any old-school trad dad and they will insist that a set of Stoppers and some training in “nut craft” are essential to any budding trad climber. A first trad rack should definitely include a set of Stoppers, even if it’s just a few offset Stoppers to supplement the smaller end of your rack.

Carabiners

The type of carabiner you decide to rack your brand-new cams on is up to you. Weight, handling, and size are all considerations when selecting your newcarabiners. Of course, color-coding your carabiners to match the colors on your cams with one of the Black DiamondRackpacksis recommended, but not necessary. But it does make identifying the correct placement while looking down at your harness a bit easier.

Alpine Draws and QuickDraws

In most trad climbing situations, barring straight-in splitters, you’ll need to extend placements to reduce rope drag. Having a number of alpine draws—60cm slings with two carabiners—is crucial. The exact number depends on who you ask, but six to eight is a safe place to start. You can build your own with lightweight, wiregate carabiners and a 60cm sling, or go with the MiniWire Alpine Quickdraw 3-Pack, or the Oz Alpine Draw. In addition, a few shorter (12cm), lightweight quickdraws are nice to have, especially if you’re placing Stoppers.

What Should I Buy?

Building and maintaining a rack is a lifelong endeavor, so don’t worry about getting it all figured out right away. A good place to start is with a single set of cams, whether they’re Ultralights or C4s, a set of nuts like the Classic Stopper Set, and a grip of alpine draws and quickdraws. Along with a nut tool, anchor material, and a few locking carabiners, you’ll be set up to tackle most routes, especially if you team up with your climbing partner. It’s a big investment to buy all this equipment, so make sure you choose carabiners, cams, and nuts that you’re excited about—you will have this gear for a long time!