How To Choose Climbing Shoes

Photographer: Christian Adam Athlete: Seb Bouin Location: Yosemite, CA

How To Choose Climbing Shoes

From gym bouldering to traditional multi-pitch routes, climbing has a wide array of styles. That’s why choosing the right pair of shoes is a crucial step for success. Check out this article to help you choose the perfect climbing shoe.

The Basics

Buying your first pair of climbing shoes is an opportunity to have your own rock climbing Cinderella moment. Try on as many pairs as possible, and eventually, you’ll find the one that fits just right. Looking for a pair of climbing shoes online is possible, but requires more research and attention to detail. That’s where we come in. This article will outline the basics and provide a path to selecting your next pair of climbing shoes.

Before hitting the virtual shelves, you’ll want to be clear on what type of climbing you plan to do and your overall climbing experience. These factors all play into your selection.

Are you psyched on slabs? Obsessed with cracks? Training relentlessly in the gym? Maybe it's all of the above. If you spend more time on low-angle to vertical terrain, a flat, stiffer shoe with minimal asymmetry is ideal. For cracks, you may want a bit of extra ankle protection. An asymmetrical, downturned shoe will help you toe in with more power on steeper terrain.

If you are new to climbing, chances are you’ll be more comfortable in a flat shoe rather than an overly aggressive one. In terms of sizing, it comes down to personal preference. A climbing shoe should be snug but not overly tight. It takes a little while to get your feet accustomed to the fit of climbing shoes, so generally, if you’re just starting out, you’ll probably want to size your shoes pretty comfortably right out of the box. We’ve categorized our shoes below to help you narrow in on the right pair while considering fit, style of climbing, and features.

Your First Pair of Climbing Shoes

As a new climber, comfort is king. If your feet hurt, you’ll just be dreaming of taking your shoes off rather than focusing on the climbing itself! With this in mind, we designed the Momentum and the Momentum Lace climbing shoes. Both of these shoes feature an Engineered Knit upper that stretches and breathes where you need it. A soft-flex midsole makes for a comfortable, all-day fit, so you can wear these shoes on everything, from moderate multi-pitches to long gym

Versatile Shoes for Sport Climbing

If you’re a climber who bounces around between different areas with different types of climbing, a single shoe that works for various styles is ideal. Sticking with one pair of shoes keeps it simple, with one break-in period and one fit to get used to. With a molded heel for heel hooking, a padded tongue, and a stiff toe box with a slight downturn, the Method is the ideal one-shoe-quiver. This shoe really shines in vertical to slightly overhanging terrain, but its design is adaptable to a full range of climbing situations

Aggressively Shaped Shoes for Steep Climbing

For those who dream of toe hooks, heel hooks, kneebars, and other steep climbing trickery, the Method S is the way to go. A step up from the Method in terms of downturn and asymmetry, this shoe is a steep climbing machine. Plus, the shoe’s single Velcro strap closure makes for easy-on-easy-off between burns.

Shoes for Trad Climbing

A trad climbing-specific shoe provides support on long routes, protection for all the scuffing and groveling that comes with the style, and a relatively stiff sole for standing on tiny edges and smearing. We make two different shoes that fit the bill here: the Aspect and the Aspect Pro. Both constructed with durable leather uppers, a lace closure to fine-tune the fit, and a stiff rubber sole, these shoes are designed for steep sandstone splitters and long granite corners. The Aspect Pro adds a little more ankle protection and a mesh tongue for added breathability.

The Bottom Line

Trying on climbing shoes in person is ideal. That way, you can fine-tune your sizing, fit, and feature set and, most importantly, make sure your next pair of shoes is comfortable. As you continue down your climbing path, you’ll probably come to the conclusion that you’ll need a couple of different pairs of shoes, as each model performs in specific ways. It's not a bad idea to start off with a moderately shaped, versatile shoe and then get a more specialized model down the road.