FAQs

Here you'll find a few of our most popular questions,
indexed by the categories on the left.

If you can't find what you're looking for, please contact us.

If you're in Europe and have questions for Black Diamond Europe please email them HERE. Or contact our European office via phone or letter here:

Black Diamond Equipment AG
Christoph Merian Ring 7
4153 Reinach, Switzerland
p: +41/61 564 33 33
f: +41/61 564 33 34

ROCK

Q. How the heck can I find Kolin Powick's QC with KP column?
A. Good question! This popular portion of our website can be found HERE.

Q. Is it okay to use carabiners that have been dropped?
A. Unfortunately, the only way to know if “dropped” carabiners are fit for use is to test them to their breaking point. This doesn’t do you much good, now does it? It's best to inspect dropped gear for dings and significant trauma. If only light scratching is visible and gate action is still good, there is a good chance it is fit for usage. Remember, only you know what your gear has been through and if there is any doubt, it's best to retire the gear rather than take a risk.

Q. When should I retire my carabiners?
A. Here are our suggestions on what to look for when retiring aluminum carabiners:

1) Check for good gate action: The open-gate strength of carabiners is roughly 1/3 of the closed-gate strength. If a biner has a gate that rubs or sticks open, it should be cleaned and lubed. If this does not improve gate action, the biner should be retired. The same holds true for any gate locking mechanism.

2) Check for excessive wear: If you can feel that the rope-bearing surfaces of the biner are significantly worn (wearing off the anodization is normal after a few uses) the biner should be retired.

3) Check for deformation: If a biner has been loaded such that the body or nose has deformed—or the carabiner gate rivets have been bent (this usually results in poor gate action)—the biner should be retired.

4) Check for nicks or deep scratches: If a biner has nicks or deep gouges beyond the normal light scratching that occurs in use, it should be retired. Carabiners are more susceptible to surface damage near the nose hook or within an inch of the bending radii of the body.

5) Has the carabiner been exposed to extreme heat? If a biner has been exposed to "extreme heat" (i.e. a fire) it should be retired and destroyed due to possible negative affects to the heat treatment the carabiner underwent when it was made.

6) Has the carabiner been exposed to harsh chemicals or excessive corrosion? If your carabiner has been exposed to aggressive chemicals (like battery acid, petroleum-based fuel, ect.) its a good idea to retire the biner. Likewise, any corrosion beyond the normal thin gray/white oxidation layer that forms on exposed aluminum should be grounds for retirement, especially if it starts to affect gate action (see #1).

In closing: Keep in mind is that only YOU know what your gear has been through. If your instincts tell you that the gear is dubious, retiring it is a good idea. Confidence in your equipment is not only key to climbing at your limit but helps you stay relaxed and having fun.

Q. The axles on my new C4 Camalot seem too long—what’s up?
A. On your new C4 Camalots it may appear that the cam axles are longer than you're use to seeing. This can be noticed by the amount of play, or the amount of side-to-side movement of the lobes on the axles. The play is there for a reason—to allow the lobes to move freely during use. This is intentional in the design and allows the cams to function properly in all conditions.

Q. How far should I retract my cams for the most solid placement?
A. In almost all situations, provided the placement is sound (good rock, not too slick or flared), a Micro Camalot of size .3 and above, will likely be reliable when fully retracted (only problem here is that the unit may be hard to remove) to 25% retracted. With the .1 and .2 Camalots being so small, they start to lose the ability to hold a fall at about 40% retraction.

Q. How can I get my Camalot slings replaced?

We replace worn slings and triggers wires upon request. New slings cost $5.00 and trigger wire replacements are $10.00. There is a $5.00 charge for return shipping (U.S. return addresses only).

Send to:

Black Diamond Warranty & Repair
2084 East 3900 South
Salt Lake City, UT 84124

Include all your contact and return shipping info, payment, and a brief description of what you need/want done. We accept Visa/MC, Am Ex, personal check, or money order. Allow 3 weeks once we receive your return.

Q. Can BD retro my old Hexes with cable?
A. Sorry, but we don't offer this service. Click HERE for Aramide 5.5 mm cord that is perfect for reslinging Hexentrics.

Q. Dear BD, I'm a student/climber doing a research paper on design, manufacturing, marketing or something similar and I'd like to speak to someone in your company about this. Who can I talk to?
A. Black Diamond receives several inquiries every day from students and researchers requesting detailed information on everything from manufacturing processes to product development. We are honored that so many would consider us for these individual projects and research papers, yet due to staffing constraints and the proprietary nature of the majority of this information, we are not able to fulfill these requests. While many of these projects are undoubtably worthwhile, we simply do not have the resources allocated to spend the amount of time required to address the majority of content in these requests. A good bit of info on our Quality Control and Testing can be found here.

If you would still like to pursue your request, you can submit a proposal in writing, directly to us. Your request must be accompanied by the following information:

1) Your name, address, phone number and email address.
2) School/educational institution name and address.
3) Instructor(s) name and contact phone number.
4) Detailed outline of your project, including what SPECIFIC information you require, why you require it and what it will be used for.
5) Original projects on subjects that we may not know the answer to generally have a better chance of receiving support.

We will review all requests for information and decide on a case-by-case basis which ones we can help with. Others will be returned with our sincere apologies. Requests should be sent to:

Black Diamond Quality Assurance
2084 East 3900 South
Salt Lake City, UT. 84124

Thank you for your interest in Black Diamond Equipment and our sincere apologies for any inconvenience this policy may cause you.

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BACKCOUNTRY

Q. How do I trim my skins?
Good Question. Click here for downloadable instructions or watch this video clip. Also, each skin page now has a short instructional video on skin trimming.

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HEADLAMPS

Q. Can I replace the LED bulbs in my BD headlamp?
A. No. LED bulbs have no filament and are made of a super-strong resin, so the likelihood of them breaking or burning out is slim. However, if they do fail we encourage you to send your bulb in to our Warranty Department:

Black Diamond Warranty and Repair
2084 East 3900 South
Salt Lake City, UT 84124
(801) 365-5555

Q. Which 6-volt batteries can I use for my Ion or SpaceShot headlamp?
A. Duracell 28L (lithium)
Duracell 28A (alkaline)
Black Diamond 6-volt replacement (silver oxide)
Radio Shack 2cr 1/3 N (lithium)
Kodak K28L (lithium)

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FOOTWEAR

As of April 1, 2006, Black Diamond Equipment is no longer importing or distributing SCARPA hiking, climbing or ski boots. Please click on the links below for more information regarding the sales and service of all SCARPA products.

www.scarpa.com
customerservice@scarpa.com

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ALPINISM

Q. What is the difference between a B and T rating on BD picks?
A. In general, T-rated tools are usually defined as "intended for steep ice." Think Viper, Cobra, Fusion, Reactor—tools for climbing waterfalls and mixed climbing. B-rated are usually defined as "Ice tools other than technical ice tools." These are more along the lines of piolets for mountaineering, etc. Think Raven, Raven with Grip, Raven Pro, Raven Ultra, Venom, etc.

It gets slightly more confusing because, over time, the ratings and
requirements have slightly shifted, so now it is possible, and common,
to buy an ice tool that has a T-rated shaft, but a B-rated pick as
well as a tool with a B-rated shaft and a T-rated pick.

So what do all these ratings mean, and why are they different?

For simplicity's sake, consider that all tools have to go through the
same regalia of testing to be certified:

• 3-point bend test on the shaft (to simulate rappelling off an ice
  tool as a dead-man)
• Strength of head/shaft interface in use direction
• Strength of head/shaft interface perpendicular to "use direction"
• Torque test of pick

The difference between a shaft or pick attaining a rating is that the
T-requirements are higher, so in general a T component is more
durable and stronger.

So which tool and pick is right for the job?

A lot of that is personal preference. For mountaineering the Raven, Raven with Grip or Raven Pro—for ski mountaineering perhaps the Raven Ultra. For a combination of mountaineering with some gully climbing or moderate vertical ice—the Venom is a really versatile tool.

For technical climbing one our tech tools is the obvious choice—Cobra or Viper with leashes, Fusion or Reactor if you wish to go leashless. T-picks are tougher and can take more abuse (Titan and Fusion), while B picks (the Laser) that are intended for steep ice generally perform really well but would be less durable and the likelihood that they could bend or break is increased. Your mileage may vary depending on competence and technique.

Q. How do I sharpen my ice picks?
A. Get yourself a round 1/8 inch chainsaw file and a good ski-tuning file. Have a good pick on hand to use as a reference. Don't use an electric power grinder, as they can overheat the pick and ruin the temper.

File the pick end first, trying to restore the original bevel angle, while not making a half moon shape out of the tip. Make sure you don't make the tip angle too steep as it will be very fragile—yet if it isn’t steep enough, your placements won't be as secure. File the flat hook on the bottom, stroking outward from you.

Repair damaged teeth using the chainsaw file. Use the flat side of the chainsaw file to return the original bevel of about 45 degrees—but not on the first tooth. Go slow, and use the reference pick, as filing off too much is worse than filing too little. The pick will need to be retired when you start filing past the first 3/8 inch tooth.

Q. How do I sharpen my ice screws?
A. Use wooden blocks in a bench-mounted vise. Get a small flat file (6" flat mill bastard) and a four inch "ignition file." It’s a good idea to have another screw that’s in prime condition for use as a reference.

Work on the worst tooth first. The outside round radius isn't super important, but make sure that it doesn't have any burrs.

The vertical part of the tooth should be free of burrs as well, but make sure to keep the beveled edge intact and trending inward. This should be sharpened inward to crush and force the ice shavings inside the screw. Your goal is to restore the teeth to their original shape, with the tips in the same plane. Remove as little material as possible and avoid removing the radius in the corner. Touch up any burrs on the threads and pay particular attention to the starting thread. Finally, give the inside diameter a quick shot of WD-40. Always dry your screws with the protective caps removed and use the caps for transit.

Click HERE for a video demo on how to
sharpen your ice screws.

 

Q. Will the Viper Fang fit on my other BD tools, or just the Viper?
A. The Fang was built around the spike and pommel of the Viper for strength and durability, and will not work on any other BD ice tools, or tools from other manufacturers.

Q. The toe bail on my crampons doesn't fit my boot—what should I do?
A. Some very minor manipulating of crampon toe bails is acceptable to help it fit your boots better, but you have to be very careful not to weaken the bail by excessive or repeated bending. In most cases, it's easier and more effective to carefully modify the boot toe-welt with a file.

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OTHER

Q. I work in the outdoor industry and would like to buy Black Diamond gear. How can I do this?
A. If you are a certified mountain guide, a pro patroller or an outdoor professional and would like information regarding pro pricing or service on an order you have placed, please go here for further information or contact the Black Diamond Pro Purchase Department or call 801-278-5552

Q. I am a climber/backcountry skier and would like to be sponsored by Black Diamond. How do I go about doing this?
A. If you are an individual or an organization seeking donations or sponsorship please go here for further information.

Q. How do I submit photos to be considered for use in the Black Diamond catalog?
A. Black Diamond has a tradition of showcasing the finest climbing and skiing photography in our catalogs. If you'd like to submit photos to Black Diamond for review, we accept submissions twice yearly. We accept skiing and ice climbing images in the spring, for consideration in our winter catalogs; and climbing images in the fall for consideration in our spring catalog. We prefer your highest-quality color slides, but if you have a special request please contact our Photo Manager.

Submissions can be sent to:
BD Marketing Dept/Photo Submissions
2084 East 3900 South
SLC, UT 84124

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ORDERING

Q. When will my order ship?
A. Orders are generally shipped the next business day after we receive your order. For orders placed Friday, or over the weekend, we will enter your order on the following Monday and ship it that morning. We make every effort to ship 2-Day Air and Next Day Air requested orders the same business day we receive them. However, orders must be received by 12 pm Mountain Time to ensure this service. Note that holidays do not count as business days and we are certainly closed for a fair amount of them. You will be notified of any backorders or stock outs.

Q. What are my shipping options/costs?
A.

Delivery times are calculated from when the order leaves our warehouse, not when we receive your order.

Q. How can I track my order?
A. Tracking information is available by contacting us at bdmo@bdel.com. We must have your order number from your second order confirmation to facilitate this. Note that tracking info is not available for orders sent via the US Postal Service. If you specify postal delivery, Black Diamond will not be responsible for lost or damaged packages.

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