Saint Auban is a new climbing spot near the Verdon Gorges. It remained somewhat hidden until a few years ago. Recently, a wave of bolting has made it more well-known.
I first heard about Saint Auban a few years ago, but I never found the time to visit the area. This summer was a great opportunity to explore the new sectors and new projects. The place is perfect for hot weather. I was amazed by the caves and the potential for hard projects.
Black Diamond Presents: Hard Sends with Seb Bouin—Jamming Destruction 9a+/b
I started by climbing the existing routes, then I began bolting inspiring new lines.
My first big project was "Jamming Destruction," a beautiful and complex line. It starts with a sloping prow on a roof, reminiscent of The Big Island in Fontainebleau. The start is probably around V13. Then, you reach a rest where you need to put on a crack glove, which is really useful for the upcoming crux. I had to lock my left fist into a sloping crack to jump with my right hand to a sloper. This crux was quite tricky and a bit unpredictable when linking it all together. After that, there's a beautiful stamina test that takes you to the anchor. "Jamming Destruction" is a tough king line, and I hope more people will try it in the future — it really deserves the attention.
I also completed my hardest flash ever in Saint Auban. This route is the main line of the sector, traversing almost the entire crag from right to left. The line was so obvious that it became the ultimate route for the event organized by the bolters. Despite strong climbers trying, no one had managed to send this project.
One day, while I was warming up on some 8a/b routes, bolter Adrien Boulon came up to me and suggested I try to flash the project. At the time, it was estimated to be 5.14d, which was definitely above my flash level. But he insisted, so I finally put my shoes on for a flash attempt.
To my surprise, I felt great on it. It was 100% my climbing style. Crux by crux, I didn’t make any mistakes, and I was able to recover at the rests. I felt quite relaxed mentally, which allowed me to take risks at just the right moments.
I was a bit nervous about the last section, which was supposed to be easier. It was slightly dirty, and the pressure came from the realization that I might actually send the route. But everything went well.
I was surprised to flash something like that on a first ascent—usually that’s not my thing, but this time it worked out.
I think this route should be graded 5.14c.
To finish the trip, I bolted another project with a crazy jump move. I didn't have enough time to complete it, but I'll be back for it in the future.
—Seb Bouin
Gear for the send
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