20 Questions
Describe your climbing background:
I started to rock climb by trad climbing. Then, I spent so many years in Europe. These days I mostly climb in Japan. I have many different experiences from different types of climbing and different cultures.

Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for you?
I don’t really have a defining moment but there was one breakthrough—it was my onsight attempt on the Salathe 1997. That moment was incredibly powerful and energetic and I still want that defining moment.

Any training advice or suggestions?
Find a goal.

Who or what inspires you?
I’m inspired from conversations with the younger generation of climber but many people inspire me.

How do you see climbing evolving in the next five years?
The bouldering level is very high now with lots of V14s and V15s, and with this level of bouldering there will be more 5.15b routes that get climbed at a faster rate. Then some young climber will come along and push the limit even more to 5.15c maybe in the next five years. It’s possible.

What do you think about the 5.15 grade?
I think about it a lot.

Care to comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw on sport routes or pre-placed gear on trad routes, chipping/comfortizing holds, glue vs. no glue?
Stuff like this is very complicated and I think there are different answers for different situations. What’s important is to be honest.

What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
I want to onsight 5.14c