Gear Scene About BD

Age:
Years climbing:
Achievements:
Favorite areas:
36
15
Have a family, lots of good friends, have a house, some work, I’m healthy, make some ( a lot ) aestheticly nice first accents of climbing and bouldering without bolts. 

Magic Wood, Ticinoarea, Val di Mello, Gritstone/Peak District, and so on.

20 Questions
Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for you?
The birthday of my daughter.

Describe a memorable climbing experience:
Some first accents on a ice fall with Beat Kammerlander on my second time on the ice, Wi7 with 20 metres of rock slab runout without protection about 10 years ago, about every free accent of a high problem with little or nothing to protect.

What are you up to when you’re not climbing?
Working, family, friends.

Any training advice or suggestions?
Go outside so much as possible, try a project when you feel good, play on easy routes or boulders with your friends, no hands or with one hand, work on your footwork, look for your body movement, spend less time training on campus and woody boards or climbing walls to keep your strength, it's important to be in nature with friends and enjoy your free day of climbing.

Who or what inspires you?
I don´t know you have to do anything in your short life, In another life maybe skier or border or tennis player, workaholic or alcoholic, doesn`t matter, the important thing is to have fun and not to take it too seriously.

How do you see climbing evolving in the next five years?
I don’t care...

What do you think about the 5.15 grade?
Grades, grades fuck the grades, it's getting too important. Forget everything else but the climbing.
Fuck 8a.nu

Care to comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw on sport routes or pre-placed gear on trad routes, chipping/comfortizing holds, glue vs. no glue?
Needs more time comment coming soon.

Do you have any vices and what are they?
Coming soon

Any near death experiences?
Enough, with a Japanese climbing partner in Australia on a multi-pitch trad route after a 40-metre fall with him ripping out all the gear only the last nut held, cut one rope and the other and left only 2 strands and I was belaying in a crack with one Friend and a nut. One time hit the ground after a 20-meter fall with one piece of gear in the middle of the route. (gritstone)

Are you a fan of climbing history? Explain?
Every good accent of any sort of climbing when it was done in an ethically fine way.

What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
Be healthy, get back to some gritstone routes and find some new perfect lines with natural pro.

 

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