20
Questions
Was
there a big breakthrough or defining moment for
you?
The birthday
of my daughter.
Describe
a memorable climbing experience:
Some
first accents on a ice fall with Beat Kammerlander
on my second time on the ice, Wi7 with 20 metres
of rock slab runout without protection about 10
years ago, about
every free accent of a high problem with little or
nothing to protect.
What
are you up to when you’re not climbing?
Working,
family, friends.
Any training advice or suggestions?
Go
outside so much as possible, try a project when
you feel good, play on easy routes or boulders with
your friends, no hands or with one hand, work on
your footwork, look for your body movement, spend
less time training on campus and woody boards or
climbing walls to keep your strength, it's important
to be in nature with friends and enjoy your free
day of climbing.
Who or what inspires you?
I
don´t know you have to do anything in your
short life, In
another life maybe skier or border or tennis player,
workaholic or alcoholic, doesn`t matter, the important
thing is to have fun and not to take it too seriously.
How do you see climbing evolving in the next five
years?
I
don’t care...
What do you think about the 5.15 grade?
Grades, grades fuck the grades, it's getting too
important. Forget everything else but the climbing. Fuck 8a.nu
Care to comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw
on sport routes or pre-placed gear on trad routes,
chipping/comfortizing holds, glue vs. no glue?
Needs
more time comment coming soon.
Do you have any vices and what are they? Coming soon
Any near death experiences?
Enough,
with a Japanese climbing partner in Australia on
a multi-pitch trad route after a 40-metre fall
with him ripping out all the gear only the last
nut held, cut one rope and the other and left
only 2 strands and I was belaying in a crack with
one Friend and a nut. One
time hit the ground after a 20-meter fall with one
piece of gear in the middle of the route. (gritstone)
Are you a fan of climbing history? Explain?
Every good accent of any sort of climbing when it
was done in an ethically fine way.
What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
Be
healthy, get back to some gritstone routes and
find some new perfect lines with natural pro.
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