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 Describe your climbing background:
Trad, Big wallin’, bolt clipping, bouldering—I
grab it all.
Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for
you?
Yes—when I started pullin’ on plastic and
got a motivated partner!
Describe a memorable climbing experience:
Heidi Wirtz and I went to Siberia to do some sport
climbing (actually, we preferred not to sport climb,
but were fortunate enough to have our trip paid for
by The North Face, so were sent to a sport climbing
area in the mountains). After a 20-mile hike we found
ourselves in Kupol, with about twelve, 16-pitch lines.
After some scoping we found the one peak in the area
that didn’t have a route up it. With a small
rack of gear (remember it was a 20-mile hike with no
SHERPAs) and some Clif Bars we headed up. We trudged
thru snow; we had to dig out every placement with a
nut tool. Dirt filled our footholds. I had to run it
out 75 feet on the first pitch due to finding only
seams under the moss clumps. At 11 pm we were rained
out, but Heidi had found a cave to belay in. We spent
the night there, huddled in a lump, dingy and wet.
Luckily it was not that cold (it was Siberia, you know).
We finished the route with one point of aid at 5.11.
It is 1100 feet tall and 9 pitches long. We called
it “Pofigo” meaning “WHATEVER” in
Russian. Well, we did put up the only traditional route,
by the only women, by the only Americans, at the only
sport mountain we know of. And since none of the Siberians
we met had any traditional gear, it may never be climbed
again. Heidi and I push each other, cheer each other
on all the while cracking jokes, cracking up and crack
climbing!
What are you up to when you’re not
climbing?
I’m a computer geek. Besides geeking out, I like
to write, photograph, read, mountain bike, canoe, and
surf. I hate shopping and cleaning.
Any training advice or suggestions?
Stretch. It pays off when you get older, I promise.
Who or what inspires you?
Nice people with a positive attitude.
How do you see climbing evolving in the next five years?
Down the tubes, a conflagration of sporty mixed bouldering
with stem cell goo gear being way, way cutting-edge.
Really, I haven’t a clue.
What do you think about the 5.15 grade?
Just the beginning, I will march through the lower
grades!!
Care to comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw
on sport routes or pre-placed gear on trad routes,
chipping / comfortizing holds, glue vs. no glue?
No cheating! Keep it real.
Do you have any vices and what are they?
WHERE DO I START? Climbing for ONE!
Any near death experiences?
Every time I climb!! I put myself at the mercy of my
partner and me—luckily we’ve both, so far,
had pretty good days.
Are you a fan of climbing history? Explain?
I’m
a fan of makin’ it—just kidding. I love
reading about the old schoolers.
What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
Rip it and grip it, that’s how I live my life!
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