20
Questions
Describe your climbing
background?
Metaphorically speaking I went to climbing grade-school in Rhode Island and learned
the basics on the Red Maple and Hemlock. My climbing “middle-school” did
not happen until I was twenty in Colorado’s South Platte granite schoolhouse
of hand-jams. Shortly after that I attended Indian Creek High which was brutal
with some hard teachers and awkward times in offwidth and ringlock class. For
college I really felt some parental pressure and was forced into a double major
in “speed-climbing” and ”dirt bagging it hard” at the
University of Yosemite. I liked the place so much I decided to stay for a Masters
in “big-wall free climbing”. Since completing studies on the FreeRider
last spring I’ve decided to try to go for a doctorate on “horrifying
choss” and “unclimbed formations” in the greater rangers. This
has already provided some interesting trundles, chopped ropes, and unplanned
bivies in Alaska, Nepal, and Pakistan and I hope to get funding for continued
research…
Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for you?
A certain turning point
could have been my first time above tree-line in New Hampshire's White Mountains.
I was very young but realized a strong draw to the alpine environment and the
possibility of a lifetime of adventure.
What do you do when you're not climbing?
Rest days
are spent creating landscape art depicting the place I am climbing in… Climbing
and art have become complementary elements in a lifestyle of self-expression
driven by the attraction to iconic landscapes like Yosemite, the Himalayas or
the Alaska Range. Ultimately it is amazing we are here at all. The more time
we spend expressing ourselves the more richly we have lived. Climbing and art
are the vehicles which carry me in this direction.
Any training advice or suggestions?
Try to immerse yourself in an inspired community
of climber and have a goal you are truly passionate about!
Who or what inspires you?
Unclimbed rock towers and classic climbing characters
who have a lifetime supply of passion for climbing and the mountains… (Fred
Beckey, Peter Croft, Kurt Albert, Tim Kemple Sr. to name a few)
Anything that really irks you in the mountains?
Claustrophobic bivys at altitude
and mandatory sketchy descent rappels…
What's playing on your stereo/iPod or in your head right now?
I’ve got a pretty
solid spectrum of music going on right now from Reggae/Instrumental to Gangster
Rap/Techno... Some specific artists I appreciate are Dr. Octagon, The Postal
Service, and John Scofield…
What book are you reading right now or read that you liked?
At the moment I’m
reading
Sophie’s World by Jostein Gaarder… It’s an attention
grabbing mystery novel that has a history of philosophy course imbedded into
the plot.. Recommended for any extended expedition with lots of stormy weather.
Seinfeld or Simpsons?
I would have to go for the Simpsons for the classic characters
and hilarious sarcasms on society.
What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
Continue to find inspiration
in the greater ranges with art and climbing. Unclimbed rock towers in the Himalaya!!!