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20
Questions
Describe your climbing background:
I started climbing in 1983 during a time when we were
free climbing but not yet sport climbing. A time when
climbers were coming down from the mountains, carrying
inside them the values and the beauties of the life
they lived while there. Climbing was about feeling
alive, enthusiastic and adventurous.
Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for
you?
After four years of sport climbing on shorter walls
and focusing on climbing as hard as possible, I visited
the Verdon gorges. For the first time there I was climbing
at my limits on routes with many meters below and above
me. This experience allowed me to breath in a deeper
spirit of the climbing life and to travel to incredibly
wild places.
Describe a memorable climbing experience:
Besides all the memories of the hard climbs I’ve
done, it would be the memories of climbing alone, in
the summer, on very easy and long routes in my home
mountains, the Dolomites. Climbing on third- and fourth-class
terrain for eight hundred meters brings me to another
dimension of climbing. Climbing there is not about
thinking, but instead about feeling free and believing
that the power of gravity doesn’t exist any more.
When you feel free from its pull, climbing is something
else and very, very special.
Who or what inspires you?
Every climber that I see moving so effortlessly, wild
spaces and isolated walls
Care to comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw
on sport routes or pre-placed gear on trad routes,
chipping/comfortizing holds, glue vs. no glue?
Everybody is free to climb, as they want. When you
climb a route with pre-placed gear you do nothing bad
to the community of climbers. But when you chip a hold
or you change the morphology of a rock it is a shame
and negatively affects the whole community of climbers,
on many levels—the spirit of climbing is about
adapting to your environment.
Do you have any vices and what are they?
I’m have plenty of vices and their temptations
are strong. After twenty-three years of climbing, I
have a deep love for the rock and sometimes I think
that I couldn’t live without it.
Are you a fan of climbing history? Explain?
I love the history of climbing and climbing makes me
feel like I’m part of its evolution.
What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
Climbing and dreaming of climbing—both make my
life richer and bring me closer to my ideal of what
our experience, here on Earth, is about.
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