• First complete South to North traverse of the Southern Alps, NZ, 1979
• Ascent of south face of Mera (6400m), Nepal, 1984.
• Ascent of Girgindal Peak (6300m), Pakistan, 1985.
• Member of NZ Womens Kayak Expedition, Sikim, India (numerous 1st descents),1991.
• New Zealand Womens Sportclimbing Champion, 1994.
• Third place Escalade Climbing Festival, Australia, 1995.
• First female pair ascent of Siblings of the Sun, 5.12c,9pp, Australia, 1996
• New Zealand Macpac Mountaineer of the Year, 1999.
• First female team ascent Sth Face of Douglas, NZ (with sister), 1999.
• First female team ascent South Face of Mt Aspiring, NZ, 1999.
• First ascent Stuck in the Middle, M6plus WI 6, Terminator Wall, Canada, 2001.
• First female pair ascent of the Colton/Leach route on Mt Huntington, Alaska, 2003.
• Ascent of Nettle/ Quirk route, Mr Huntington, Alaska, 2003.
• First ascent Peak 11529, Tokisitna Glacier, Alaska, 2004.
• Ascent of Deprivation, Mt Hunter, Alaska, 2004.
• Member of NZ/UK expedition to make first ascent of Jankuth (6845m), India 2005. (unsuccessful),
• First ascent, Xiashe (5960m) Sichuan, China, 2005. (Shipton Tilman Award US$6,500)
• First ascent Haizi Shan (5897m) Sichuan China, 2006.
• Member of NZ Womens Expedition to make first ascent of Beka Brakkai Chhok (6940m), Pakistan, 2007 (unsuccessful) (Shipton Tilman Award, US$1500; SPARC Hilary Expedition Grant, NZ15,000)
• First ascent Wahini (6000m) Pakistan, 2007

Pakistan would be way up there – I was there five weeks ago trying the first ascent of Beka Brakkai Chhok (6940). I also love Alaska and consider climbing Deprivation on Mt Hunter as a climbing highlight. But I guess the one place I will always keep going back to is the Hooker Valley on the west side of Mt Cook, here in NZ. It has just the best winter ice routes.

 My favourite climbing partner would have to be Malcolm Bass (UK). Last year we made the first ascent of Haizi Shan in Sichuan, China, and just had the best time

 

20 Questions
Describe your favorite day climbing/skiing?
Ive had so many its hard to discern one in particular, but a climb that sticks in my mind is climbing the South Face of Mt Douglas (grade 5plus) with my sister Christine. This is a technical ice climb and a testpiece in New Zealand for anyone wanting to winter climb on ice. Christine had done virtually no climbing but she followed me up the 12 pp like a pro, then managed the difficult and dangerous descent. It was a fantastic day and I was so proud of Christine. We did the first female team ascent of the route.

Who inspires you?
Mick Fowler, Stephen Venables, Barry Blanchard, Karen McNeill, Steve House, Marko Prezjl, Sir Edmund Hilary, any climber from Poland, Russia or Slovenia.

Favorite piece of BD equipment and why?
This would have to be my Firstlight tent! Ive used it as a summit tent on my last two expeditions to China and Pakistan and Im about to use it again in  India. Its steep walls means theres no build up of snow and no wasted space inside. Its super breathable but so far Ive had no trouble with it leaking. Its also more robust than I initially thought and apart from burning a hole in it with the cooker, its still in one piece. It’s a real little palace.        

Training techniques for climbing/skiing?
I have been weight training for over 20 years and I truly believe not only does it keep me strong but injury free. I think it’s really important to focus on keeping  the muscles you don’t use climbing strong- this keeps you balanced and helps avoid over- use problems. I spend a lot of time climbing on plastic in winter, and back country skiing for aerobic fitness. Before I head away on an expedition I focus  on balancing aerobic training and strength and take advantage of the altitude simulation unit at our local gym.

Goals you have for the future?
I’m off in five days to India to try the SE Ridge of Kharchakund (6654m). In June next year I am heading back to Pakistan with Malcolm Bass for another go at the first ascent of Beka Brakkai Chhok (6940m) which I failed on this year. Then in October I will be heading back to  India for an as yet undecided objective.

These days I am really focused on overseas expedition climbing, and imagine I will maintain this interest while my body hangs together.

Describe the perfect climb/ski trip?
A fully funded (the NZ dollar doesn’t go very far these days!)  fully outfitted ( with BD equipment) expedition to an unclimbed peak in Pakistan with my best climbing partner Malcolm. The peak will be about 6,500-7000m high and a mixture of technical rock and ice, with no avalanche hazard. The sun will shine every day (but not too hot), the porters wont strike, the food will be awesome, no one will get sick……and to top it all off..we’ll summit!

What is your favorite music?
Um…..at the moment I really like the group ‘Over the Rhine’ and Ive always liked Emmy-Lou Harris. I also like a New Zealand artist called Holly Smith.