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Age:
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Years climbing:
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Achievements:
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Favorite areas:
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34
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22
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—2nd
ascent of Equilibrium E10 7a, (hardest route on
UK gritstone?)
—3rd ascent of Indian Face E9 6c, Cloggy North Wales
—First ground-up ascent of an 8a Deep Water Solo in UK
—New routes in Cuba, Mongolia, Vietnam & Brazil
—M9 flash in Fresiniere, Feb. 2006
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At the moment,
deep water soloing at Covo del Diabolo in Majorca
is my favorite crag in the world.
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20
Questions
 Describe your climbing
background:
I started top roping on small sandstone crags in
southern England and then leading trad in Devon and
Dorset. I went to University in Sheffield and got
into sport climbing and started going to France to
do routes like La Rose and Chouca at Buoux. Then
it all changed and I got into Scottish winter climbing
and went back to trad, except this time it was headpointing
on grit and in the Welsh Mountains. From then on
I’ve been into everything from chalk climbing
to deep water soloing.
Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for
you?
Undoubtedly it was my repeat of Indian Face. It taught
me that just about anything is possible if you really
set your mind to it.
Describe a memorable climbing experience:
The most recent is my new 8a in China, ‘Lunar-tick,’ which
I frantically bolted and climbed during the last
two days of the trip back in November 05. It’s
the steepest pitch I’ve ever climbed and it
goes all the way through the arch at Moonhill on
crazy stalactites; (Moonhill is the coolest limestone
feature I’ve ever seen, let alone climbed on).
The pressure to send it was incredible seeing as
I was unlikely to ‘pop back to China’ just
to finish a redpoint. How can you describe how it
feels—the scenery, the people and the quality
of the climbing? I just can’t recommend that
place enough.
What are you up to when you’re
not climbing?
I do a lot of coaching and I see it as a really important
extension of my own climbing. Unfortunately, I’m
spending way too much time at my desk these days.
Any training advice or suggestions?
Break out of your set routine—it’s doing
new things that stops you from plateauing. When it
all seems to be going too well to be true, stop and
take a break—this is the best way to avoid
injury. Work on your technique every time you climb,
it gives you something to focus on when you’re
warming up and doing easy routes. Regarding the ideal
state of mind for climbing—focus on the process
and not the result. (ps: check out my Masterclass
DVDs!)
Who or what inspires you?
Anyone who gives it their all and doesn’t fall
back on the standard excuses. In the past, people
like John Redhead, Ron Fawcett and Johnny Dawes have
had major influences on my choice of routes.
How do you see climbing evolving in the next five
years?
The future has to lie in multi-pitch or big wall
climbing. There will be rock routes with multiple
pitches of 8c / 8c+ and in mixed climbing, there’ll
be multi-pitch M11/12s. In the UK, someone will combine
the new levels of bouldering strength with headpointing
tactics to produce E11s and 12s (and that someone
will be Dave Macleod!) Regarding my own climbing,
I want to continue exploring and putting up new routes
using whatever climbing style suits the rock. In
particular I hope to be doing more deep water soloing.
The potential for new routing is mind blowing.
What do you think about the 5.15 grade?
Someone will climb it but it won’t be me! I
just hope that grades don’t get too crunched
by trophy hunters. We’ve seen it happen a lot
with UK trad and Ben Moon always had a theory that
this was going on with sport climbing too.
Care to comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw
on sport routes or pre-placed gear on trad routes,
chipping/comfortizing holds, glue vs. no glue?
Pre-clipping’s seems ok as long as you do the
down-climb. Pre-placed gear should be minimized and
always declared. Chipping— no; comfortizing—maybe
on sport limestone but surely nowhere else? Glue
may be a necessary evil on certain loose sport cliffs.
Do you have any vices and what are they?
Clubbing can be pretty good fun but I’m cutting
down these days.
Any near death experiences?
Falling off Mesguga (E9) on grit and getting away
with only mild concussion (although the car ride
to hospital with Tim Emmett was perhaps more terrifying!)
Are you a fan of climbing history? Explain?
For sure—it’s a huge part of British
climbing. Our routes are probably not the best in
the world, but it’s the folklore that makes
them so unique. We’re also running out of rock
in the UK so it’s inevitable that there is
that attachment to the past.
What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
I need to get strong again. I’ve been doing
too much tradding and adventuring—it’s
been fun but I feel weak! I’d really like to
climb 8c this year but please don’t hold me
to it!
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