Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd.

20 Questions
Describe your climbing background:
I started climbing indoors in the gym as a new form of fitness. From there my friends taught me to lead climb on rock and that’s when I got hooked big time, there was no turning back.

Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for you?
Probably climbing my first 8a. It made me realize that I could climb much harder and so I went for it. Also climbing Larger than Life (8b) as I couldn’t do many of the moves for quite some time. For me the route held special significance as it showed me how dogmatic perseverance and hard work can finally pay off. I think the fact that it seemed impossible at first made it all the more satisfying to do in the end.

Describe a memorable climbing experience:
The most memorable experience for me was when I climbed the Totem Pole in Tasmania. When I first saw a photograph of it I was absolutely blown away, both by the photography and the wild place. I just remember looking at the photo and thinking, oh my God, those guys are absolutely crazy, I could never do that. The Tote has always been special to me and so when I climbed it, it made me realize that if you believe in yourself then anything is possible.

What are you up to when you’re not climbing?
Taking my dog ‘Ziggy’ for walks, running, swimming, gardening and attempting cryptic crosswords.

Any training advice or suggestions?
Mix it up, do other activities that are not climbing specific to keep motivated and in balance. Stretch always especially your upper spine.

Who or what inspires you?
I love being out at the crag and seeing other climbers giving it their all. Whether they fall or they make it, it doesn’t matter but I like to watch them fight and dig deeper than they thought was possible. But personally I like to explore new places and challenge myself in different ways.

How do you see climbing evolving in the next five years?
The kids are getting younger and stronger and sending faster, 5.15 is not out of the question for many of these mutants.

What do you think about the 5.15 grade?
For me? Mind blowing.

Care to comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw on sport routes, pre-placed gear on trad routes, chipping/comfortizing holds or glue vs. no glue?
In some places due to safety pre-clipping is common practice but more than one bolt then it should be down climbed to get the send. Pre-placed gear, well that should be declared. Chipping holds should never happen. Glue, sometimes it is important to hold the cliff together like here in the Blue Mountains.

What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
Explore new places and round out my climbing ability. My list is endless.

Photo: Monique Forestier, pitch three of The Swiss Guides Route (6b+, four pitches), Secteur Lemur Wall, Tsaranoro, Madagascar