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 20
Questions
Favorite Routes or regions?
I love Tague Yer Time in the Black Canyon—incredible
quality climbing in an adventurous setting. I
also love climbing in Pakistan, interesting culture
and kind people amidst some of the baddest mountains
on earth.
Describe
your climbing background?
I learned to climb in a very traditional (at least
by today's standards) way, making lots of slow
progression with shaking knees. I climbed sporadically
as a little kid with my father, but never took
it up in earnest until I was 15—toproping and
slowly doing lots of very easy trad leading. Exciting
adventures in the Gunks, on Cathedral Ledge, and
at other east coast areas got me hooked, and when
I moved to Boulder in '97 for college, climbing
overwhemled my life.
Describe
a memorable climbing experience?
48 hours without water on the Azeem Ridge in Pakistan—climbing
difficult terrain in a dehydrated daze at altitude,
harsh.
How do you see climbing evolving in the next 5 years?
Just as it has for many years—with slow bumps upward,
and the occasional off the charts climb.
What are your future plans and goals?
Continue to push my free climbing level, and get
into the mountains for a few months of the year
for some adventures.
Who inspires you?
Tommy Caldwell's—work ethic, kindness, and no ego.
Steve House's—drive for alpine climbing.
Tons of other friends and partners as well... Bean,
Jonny, Zack, Kelly, Chris G, Jed... too many to list.
All rad climbers and people who help feed my
pysch and energy for the sport.
Favorite piece of BD equipment and why?
Camalots—they're the best cams on the market. They
don't "gunk" up, they're now lighter than
ever, and they inspire confidence.
How are you training when you're not climbing?
In the winter I train on my home wall, and leading
up to alpine trip I'll do a fair bit of trail running
and mountain biking.
Stranded
on an island—what one food do you bring?
Ice cream.
What are you reading right now?
Taliban.
What's
playing in your stereo? Head? iPod?
Notorious B.I.G.
Immortal Technique
Rage Against The Machine
If you could be any animal what would it be and
why?
Seriously?
Seinfeld, Simpsons, or Taxi?
Simpsons
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