Gear Scene About BD

Age:
Years Climbing:
Accomplishments in Climbing?
Favorite Place to Climb and with Whom?
47
35
• First Ecuadorean to summit Everest without oxygen (May 1999, Tibetan side)
• First Ecuadorean and 4th in the World to summit Everest twice without oxygen (May 2001, Nepalese side)
• Only missing Dhaulagiri to complete the fourteen 8,000ers without oxygen.
• Appointed as one of the best sportsmen of the century in Ecuador
• Appointed as the best Ecuadorian climber for several years
• Appointed by Concentración Deportiva de Pichincha as the best Ecuadorian climber of all times
Nowadays, the 8,000ers with Basque friends Edurne Pasabán & Asier Izaguire and Colombian Fernando González.
20 Questions
Describe your favorite day climbing?
Leaving on a cold dawn (not below 20ºC though) on a windless, starry night and hopefully with a full moon. That’s for sure a beautiful day to reach an 8,000 m summit.

Who inspires you?
Always my family: my 2 kids, my mother, my sister and my close friends. As well as all the people in Ecuador who somehow support me despite the fact that I don’t even know them.

Favorite piece of BD equipment and why?
My pair of VIPER tools, ‘cause they’re wonderful. It’s great to know that once I place them they will always support me and will never abandon me.

Training techniques for climbing?

  • Long distance running
  • Track and field training
  • Biking
  • Running mid-distances at high altitude (above 15,000 feet)
  • Swimming
  • Ice-climbing in Ecuador glaciers
  • Wall climbing

Goals you have for the future?
Complete the 14 8,000ers next year. Then go back to the Alps, visit Alaska and the South Pole. Learn skiing, diving and tango-dancing.

Describe the perfect climbing trip?
Last October's climb to Shisha Pangma’s south wall: a 3,000 meter gain route in alpine style in 3 days, with 2 bivouacs on the way up and 1 coming down. We got directly to the main summit (8,046 m). Beautiful ascent due to the aesthetic route and the technique we used.

What is your favorite music?
Except for Reggaeton, I like most of genres. It all depends on the occasion: world music, “flamenco”, jazz, blues, classical, “belcanto”, merengue, vallenato, salsa.

 

 

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