Gear Scene About BD

Age:
Years Climbing:
Achievements:
Favorite Areas:
32
8

Competition:  

4 times World champion Ice Climbing and Ice Bouldering
Several World Cup titles (1st places)
Ouray Overall Winner in 2005

Ice and Mixed Routes (all redpoint):

Mission Impossible First M11 climbed by a woman
Vertical Limits M12
Musashi M12
Terminator
Stanley Haedwall
Weeping wall
Polar Circus
Several M10 and M11
First ascents in Norway in Ice and Mixed, up to WI 5, 600m;
First ascent of a mixed route M10, 150m “Good push, bad bush”
Second ascent of “Mach3”

Rock Climbing (all redpoint):

Schattenkönig 8b ;
First ascent in one day “Symphonie de liberte” 8a, Eigernorthface
Repeated “Letzte Ausfahrt Titlis” 8a+, Titlis  

Mountaineering:

Aconcagua, Alpamayo, Artesonraju, Torre de Paron...

—Breitwangfluh/ Kandersteg, Berner Oberland, Switzerland---Mach3
—Terminator Canada, Stanley Haedwall
—Norway, Lardal- Moerikkemannen (Route from Will Gadd!)


20 Questions
Describe your climbing background:
I started climbing in 1997, which was more or less hiking. I get the top of Aconcagua and went to the Peruvian Andes1998 for Mountainiering. Than I realiszed, that I have to get more technique and have to train on Ice.
I started ice climbing in frozen waterfalls and became a passion, just for ice climbing.

Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for you?
The top of Aconcagua, and the Nose on El Cap. I had no specific idea, what I like most…if it's mountaineering or climbing. I know I focus more on climbing, but more and more I go back to the mountains for long and steep routes.

Describe a memorable climbing experience when things got out of hand:
That was my accident last summer. Big rock fall on the south face of the Marmolada. I broke my leg and had to recuperate 6 months. I learned to be patient and careful with the mountains.

What are you up to when you’re not climbing?
Being a mother…… Writing articles and a book about my climbing adventures…which will be out in September...still lots to do. Also I love to balance on the slackline, in winter I go ski touring, in summer, mountain biking and meeting friends is very important to me.

Any training advice or suggestions?
www.ines-papert.de training

Who or what inspires you?
Long routes and steep climbing inspire me, even more and more. After a couple of years competing I got tired of the comps. So I will spent more time in the next few years on hard and long routes.

How does fear affect your climbing?
I try to figure out the conditions before doing a route.
And when it`s safe, than is no reason to get nervous.  During climbing I am just focused on the route and how far it is to the top…and not to the ground.

Do you have any vices and what are they?
I am very chaotic and try to do 1000 things simultaneously. Losing gear or breaking glasses are just a few examples.

Any near death experiences?
My accident..

Are you a fan of climbing history? Explain?
No time for historical reports, but I have a lot of books to read that I am interested in. Herrmann Buhl…

What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
Stay healthy…work on my climbing level, mixed m13 and rock 8b+ or 8c

Read about Ines' account of being the first woman to onsight The Flying Circus (M10).

 

 

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