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Age:
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Years Climbing:
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Achievements:
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Favorite Areas:
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35
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15
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—FFA
(via FA Bad Hair Day V 5.11+R) of the South Howser
Tower, Bugaboos, BC
—Women’s speed records on El Cap, Half Dome, and Leaning Tower
—The Wasp I 5.13a trad
—FA Qui Lombo IV 5.11 A1, San Rafael, Patagonia, Argentina
—FA Pufigou 5.11 A1, Kupol, Sayan Mnts, Russia
—FA Sharp at Both Ends III 5.11+, Chasm View, RMNP, Colorado
—The Evictor I 5.12+ R, Eldorado Canyon, Colorado
—Working with the DZI foundation, I raised enough money to put a solar
system into a small village in Sikkim India.
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Right now Thailand
and Patagonia are up on the list, but I have a
tendency to want to move to every new place that
I visit.
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20
Questions
Describe your climbing background:
My background is mainly traditional, and it is still
my favorite. My climbing started with scrambling up
peaks in the Sierras, Cascades and the Rockies. I progressed
through all of the grades, and I feel that this has
helped to make me a more solid climber.
Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for
you?
Learning how to speed climb big walls and also when
I got invited on my first big mountain trip.
Describe a memorable climbing experience:
Sitting in the sun with my toes dangling over 2,500
feet of air, smiling from ear to ear, almost overflowing
with happiness as I belayed my partner, Lizzy Scully,
to the top of the South Howser Minarette after completing
the first free ascent of this amazing tower.
What are you up to when you’re not
climbing?
Practicing yoga, surfing, running and hanging out with
friends. Usually keeping too busy, unless I am sitting
in a soggy tent waiting for the weather to clear.
Any training advice or suggestions?
Climb on “real rocks” as much as you can!
Also, I really believe that practicing yoga helps keep
me free of injuries as well as improves my performance
on the rock, both mentally as well as physical.
Who or what inspires you?
I am inspired by beautiful lines, towering rocky mountains
and those climbers that make it all look easy.
How do you see climbing evolving in the next five years?
People are going to get more into onsight-freeing big
alpine walls in the greater ranges. Climbing 5.13 in
the mountains will be the norm and everyone will be
base-jumping at the top.
Care to comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw
on sport routes or pre-placed gear on trad routes,
chipping/comfortizing holds, glue vs. no glue?
I don’t have strong feeling either way about
pre-clipping more than one draw on sport routes. It
depends how it was bolted. If it makes it safer for “you” then
go ahead. Pre placed gear on trad routes can be a bit
of a grey area. It seems to me that if you pre place
gear that it is now a sport climb, and should be documented
as such.
Chipping/comfortizing: If your going to chip holds,
then why not let the mixed climbers have at it?? Glue:
Don’t know much about it, though it does
seem good for holding the bolts in the rock in Thailand.
Do you have any vices and what are they?
Hot tea.
Any near death experiences?
When my boyfriend tried to kill me in Patagonia this
past season. Actually, he didn’t try and kill
me. A giant block shifted loose on one of the rappels
and came down on me. Fortunately there was a little
overhang to cower under but the rock did put three
core shots in one of our ropes.
What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
I would like to continue to get more involved in giving
back to the communities that I visit throughout the
world.
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