Gear Scene About BD

20 Questions
Describe your climbing background?
I first climbed in high school with some buddies who barely had more experience than me. I couldn't stop smelling the chalk and lichen/rock scent on my hands when I got home. After that I rabidly taught myself through trial and error—my first trad lead was an absolute blunder; all of my gear fell out as I climbed past it. I am really glad nobody got hurt during this time and that I was too scared to try anything that I might have fallen on. In college I was fortunate to meet up with motivated and more experienced climbers who showed my how much fun sport climbing and bouldering can be.

Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for you?
Many small breakthroughs. Getting completely schooled and shut down can generate the motivation for a breakthrough moment. The endeavor that helped me improve my technical ability the most was projecting a power-endurance sport climb 2 letter grades over my previous best for 2 full seasons. That was 4 or 5 years ago—I was psyched for that then, but right now I don't want a drawn out sport project. I think a real defining moment for me came when on expedition to La Esphinge in Peru. I had never done a first ascent of any sort and this one was 12 pitches long on an alpine wall and involved scary hand drilling on lead. Intuition (5.12+) was great and exceeded past experiences, but the defining moment came from seeing the proficiency and speed of a British Dreamteam who were climbing new routes in MUCH better style. From this experience I made a pact with myself to train, sport climb a bunch, and generally get significantly stronger before I went out on another adventure like this.

What do you do when you're not climbing?
Daydream about climbing, relax with my partner Anna, work, and right now I am in the midst of a renovation project on our house so when Anna and I do get some chill time conversation often inadvertantly drifts to subjects like R-values.

Any training advice or suggestions?
Follow your inspiration and climb and/or train with people who push you and teach you new methods/ideas/approaches.

Who or what inspires you?
Climbing: beautiful "climb me!" lines that mayby I can do if I use my imagination, feelings of freedom and lightness. Life: kindness/compassion, family, courage, friends, determination, climbing.

Any thing that really irks you in the mountains?
Trash and rappelling.

What's playing in your stereo / ipod / head right now?
Los de Abajo, Amadu and Miriam, Damien Marley, The Fugees.

What book are you reading right now or read that you liked?
I just read Shogun and Fiasco when I was on expedition in India. Very different books but both were great.

Seinfeld or Simpsons?
I watch TV next to never and when I do it is shocking and I get sucked in like a deer in headlights.

What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
Alpine free routes in quick clean style. In between I am going to climb a muerte on beautiful stone in the Southeast and get strong. Lots of great trad climbing potential in NC!

 

 

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