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20
Questions
Describe your climbing background?
I first climbed in high school with some buddies
who barely had more experience than me. I couldn't
stop smelling the chalk and lichen/rock scent
on my hands when I got home. After that I rabidly
taught myself through trial and error—my
first trad lead was an absolute blunder; all
of my gear fell out as I climbed past it. I
am really glad nobody got hurt during this
time and that I was too scared to try anything
that I might have fallen on. In college I was
fortunate to meet up with motivated and more
experienced climbers who showed my how much
fun sport climbing and bouldering can be.
Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment
for you?
Many small breakthroughs. Getting completely schooled
and shut d own
can generate the motivation for a breakthrough moment.
The endeavor that helped me improve my technical
ability the most was projecting a power-endurance
sport climb 2 letter grades over my previous best
for 2 full seasons. That was 4 or 5 years ago—I was
psyched for that then, but right now I don't want
a drawn out sport project. I think a real defining
moment for me came when on expedition to La Esphinge
in Peru. I had never done a first ascent of any sort
and this one was 12 pitches long on an alpine wall
and involved scary hand drilling on lead. Intuition (5.12+)
was great and exceeded past experiences, but the
defining moment came from seeing the proficiency
and speed of a British Dreamteam who were climbing
new routes in MUCH better style. From this experience
I made a pact with myself to train, sport climb a
bunch, and generally get significantly stronger before
I went out on another adventure like this.
What
do you do when you're not climbing?
Daydream about climbing, relax with my partner Anna,
work, and right now I am in the midst of a renovation
project on our house so when Anna and I do get
some chill time conversation often inadvertantly
drifts to subjects like R-values.
Any training advice or suggestions?
Follow your inspiration and climb and/or train with
people who push you and teach you new methods/ideas/approaches.
Who or what inspires you?
Climbing:
beautiful "climb me!" lines that mayby I can do
if I use my imagination, feelings of freedom
and lightness. Life: kindness/compassion,
family, courage, friends, determination, climbing.
Any thing that really irks you in the mountains?
Trash and rappelling.
What's playing in your stereo / ipod / head right
now?
Los de Abajo, Amadu and Miriam, Damien Marley, The
Fugees.
What book are you reading right now or read that
you liked?
I just read Shogun and Fiasco when I was on expedition
in India. Very different books but both were great.
Seinfeld or Simpsons?
I watch TV next to never and when I do it is shocking and I get sucked in like
a deer in headlights.
What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
Alpine free routes in quick clean style. In between
I am going to climb a muerte on beautiful stone
in the Southeast and get strong. Lots of great
trad climbing potential in NC!
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