20 Questions
Describe your climbing background:
At first I was following my career mainly in competitions, but from 2001 I have been concentrating on climbing hard crag routes and tackling hard boulder problems.

Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for you?
Yes—success on Action Directe 9a, Germany in 2005 and Wheel of Life V16, Australia in 2004.

Any training advice or suggestions?
The best way to progress is to enjoy climbing.

How do you see climbing evolving in the next five years?
I think top climbers will become younger and younger.

What do you think about the 5.15 grade?
I have never climbed any route of 5.15, you know, so I cannot say exactly what it is. But, I can imagine a route that is harder than 5.14d, and I think a 5.15a route surely exists.

Care to comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw on sport routes or pre-placed gear on trad routes, chipping/comfortizing holds, glue vs. no glue?
I think we should discuss the rights and wrongs of pre-clipping in individual cases. Among the extremely short routes that are popular in Frankenjura, etc, there are some, which we cannot climb without pre-clipping. Also I think, individual feeling can affect the argument, and whether it is right or not can be a matter of degree. Regarding traditional routes, I don’t have enough experience in climbing them to be able to comment on pre-placed gear. As for chipping, comfortizing holds and glue, needless to say, it is better to climb without them. But, you know, when many climbers climb on a crag, it make an impact. We should not forget the fact that the act of climbing itself damages crags, I believe. Also I want to say, even if driving a bolt is the sole compromise for climbers, it is an act which can be accepted only among climbers. When climbers argue about this kind of issue, they should have a depth of objectivity that takes account of the general public beyond the climber’s circle.

Are you a fan of climbing history? Explain?
I am interested in the details of how climbing became widespread in Japan.

What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
Happiness through climbing and to live a full life everyday.