20 Questions
Describe your climbing background:
Traditional. When I was introduced to climbing webbing came in one-inch widths, there was one brand of shoes, plastic holds were yet to be invented and there was no comp scene. I recall the controversy of bolting.

Why climb ice?
Good training for alpine climbing, a pursuit in and of itself, the fickle nature of frozen water, the extreme location ice climbs afford, the chance to get cold and the opportunity to get fully medieval with a bunch of knives. There is some sort of release to beating the daylight out of a chunk of water. It’s scary too.

Describe a climbing experience when things got out of hand:
In 1991, I fell 90 feet (28 meters) off of Middle Triple Peak. I landed on the glacier and was able to walk away. The ptarmigans were chirping to me when I landed. At the time I was convinced they were talking to me.

What has ice/alpine climbing taught you?
Ice climbing has taught me to be aware of my surroundings and have a sense of humility. We are just guests when we venture in the vertical frontier. Alpine climbing has provided me with wonderful experiences shared with partners.

What are you up to when you’re not climbing?
When I am not climbing I am raising three kids, reading books and trying to make the world a better place.

Any training advice or suggestions?
Training advice: warm-up, climb for enjoyment and leave the negative energy behind.

Who or what inspires you?
In a big picture the Dalai Lama inspires me. That guy lives for peace. He brings much needed kindness to global politics. From a climbing standpoint: Fred Beckey, Mugs Stump and Alex Lowe.

How do you see climbing evolving in the next five years?
Five year evolution: faster and cleaner ascents, more free climbing on the big ones, soloing comes back after a 20-year hiatus (we got hung up on bolts and how they were placed).

What do you think about the M13+ or WI8 grade?
I can only imagine. WI8 must be a real sketch-fest—non-stop A4 grade placements on a tottering tower.

How does fear affect your climbing?
Fear is the master. It is your self-preservation instinct taking over. To listen to fear you must feed it. Get off the sofa and get scared. It is good.

Care to comment on: heel spurs, leashes vs. leashless, falling on ice or the impact of drytooling?
—Heel Spurs: annoying on normal ice and now deemed cheating by Will—small nubbins are good for flagging on columns
—Leashless: leashes are for dogs. Are you a dog? Didn't think so. Warmer hands, more versatility and more fun
—Falling on ice: beware of your spikes
—Drytooling: we used to get worked up about pitons, chalk and lug soles impacting the environment. Drytooling is harsh on the cliff. Visit Hafner Creek, in Canada for too much of a good thing. On the right cliffs, no big deal. Try and not drytool rock climbs.

Any near death experiences?
Yes. I have had three near death experiences. Not nice.

Are you a fan of climbing history?
I quite like climbing history. Climbing is a new sport (in the context of human history) and has a rich literary heritage. Knowing who Willo Welzenbach and Herman Buhl were provides background to where we are today. We are in a figurative sense doing shoulder stands on the previous generation.

What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
Future plans: obscure low elevation peaks via technical routes in alpine-style, do one of the free routes on El Cap and climb with my family.