Click here to read planetmountain.com's
interview with Zangerl after her historic ascent
of Pura Vida (8a+/8b) in Switzerland's Magic Wood.
20
Questions
Describe your climbing background:
I like going outside with my friends, having a
good time in a nice area, looking for new boulders,
cleaning them and finally trying them. My motivation
to climb rises when there is a proud line to climb.
I also like to discover unknown boulders or areas
and to meet different people. Eventually I will
visit other countries and go bouldering because
I just love that feeling—when you solve a
boulder problem—muscles tired but climbing
at your limit, fully concentrating and doing the
hardest moves you can no matter where you are.
Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment
for you?
On my first day of climbing, I was sure that BOULDERING
was my sport.
Describe a memorable climbing experience:
This summer I did the first repeat of “Falsche
Götter,” Fb 7c/+, which is a 10m highball
in the Silvretta Mountains. This was my first real
highball and it kicked*%$. It was really a great
feeling.
What are you up to when you’re
not climbing?
Doing nothing, alpine skiing or sleeping
Any training advice or suggestions?
I prefer climbing on real rock as much as possible.
I don’t follow a training schedule. I just
listen to my body.
Who or what inspires you?
Bernd Zangerl, a perfect line or rock
How do you see climbing evolving in the next five
years?
Climbing/bouldering will become more popular. This
is good for the sport itself, but there will also
be more problems. Many people forget that climbing
is an outdoor sport and don’t respect nature.
Care to comment on chipping or comfortizing holds?
For me chipping or comfortizing holds is not understandable.
Chipping is a sign for a “weak character”.
Chipping means NO RESPECT FOR NATURE! I have respect,
and I try to adapt my body and not the rock, when
I want to climb a project. I can’t understand
people who are doing this. They are lying to themselves,
and it would be better if they just tried another
sport.
What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
My dream is Rocklands ;-)—climbing and travelling
as much as possible, finding a sponsor who will
pay for this ;-), remaining injury-free and developing
more power while having fun and keeping that deep
feeling of climbing inside me.