Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd.

Age:	Years Climbing:	Achievements:	Favorite Areas:
24	12	Best competition results: —French Championship winner from 1999 to 2005 —European championship winner in 2000 and 2002 —World Cup championship winner in 2001, 2002 and 2003 —Arco Master 2002, 2003 in 2004 —Serre-Chevalier Master in 2004 —Dima Master in 2005 Hardest routes: —Kinematix, 9a —Reaccion Indirecta, 8c/8c+, the hardest route in Argentina —Directa Challenger, the first 8c of Argentina, onsight —Asaï, 8c/+ —En dépit du bon sens, 8c/+ —Ultimate sacrifice, 8c+ —Quenelle Trophy Maux de la Fin, 8c+ —Trip-Tik To-Nik, 8c ou 8c+ —UFO, 8c —La Chronique de la haine ordinaire, 8c —7 PM JP Chaud, 8c —Total Eclatch, 8c —Le Cadre, 8c —Last soul sacrifice, 8c —Tribal Dance, 8c —Qoussaï Maux de la Fin, 8c —Tango To-Nik, 8c —Mustoc, 8c —Balzolita, 8c flash	Côte d’Azur, Alsace and Fontainebleau in France

20 Questions

Describe your climbing background:
I started to climb with my father in Chamonix on small boulders when I was six-years old. After I found a club in Reims (Champagne capital) for indoor climbing and climbed as much as possible outside during the weekend and the holidays.

Describe a memorable climbing experience:
On rock:
I thought I was falling on each move but when I clipped the top of my hardest route (Kinematix) surrounded by plenty of friends, I could not believe I had done it! After this realization, I climbed two other hard routes that same day (Last Soul Sacrifice, 8c and Asaï, 8c+).
During a competition:
When I won the famous Serre-Chevalier Master after a super final for the first time. It was a very big fight mentally and physically and over the past five years I couldn’t manage to win because of little mistakes.

What are you up to when you’re not climbing?
I make landscape and climbing pictures when I travel and I enjoy music.

Any training advice or suggestions?
—Climb all-styles
—Maximize your travelling
—Work on both your strong and weak points
—Make goals for yourself
—Stay motivated all the time

Who or what inspires you?
The climbing way of life, perseverance, trying to do my best, travelling around the world and discovering places and people. Live my passion, feel the vibes and share it during those unforgettable moments and push my own limits.

How do you see climbing evolving in the next five years?
I think that the crag-free access will become a real problem as it already is in some countries. The difference between indoor gym climbers and outdoor climbers will increase to form two different activities.

What do you think about the 5.15 grade?
It’s an ultimate grade and a priority for me.

Care to comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw on sport routes or pre-placed gear on trad routes, chipping/comfortizing holds, glue vs. no glue?
For the pre-clipping, I think, it’s the first ascensionists who decides the style and after that, other climbers should try to follow that style.
As for chipped holds, nobody is making you to climb on them. The choice is up to you. I only disagree with chipped holds when the route can be done without them.