20 Questions
Describe your climbing background:
I started climbing with friends while I was at University of Berkeley but quickly moved on to Yosemite every chance I could get. Then I just kept taking on new challenges, whether that was waterfall ice climbing, new routes in Pakistan, alpine climbing in Nepal or backcountry skiing. I love a new challenge, love to be on a steep learning curve but also enjoy a measure of mastery in activities I have worked on for a long time.

Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for you?
Perhaps climbing The Nose in a day back in 1996 was a breakthrough in my belief of myself. It really opened the door to what was possible for me if I just gave it a try.

Describe a memorable climbing experience:
My most recent memorable moment was our summit day on Cholatse last year. We knew it was going to be a long day, and that we'd have to spend a night out somewhere, so we chose to leave camp at 7:30 p.m. We climbed the entire technical ridge in the dark (65 degree ice, with some rock climbing mixed in). I remember sitting at a belay in the dark about halfway up the ridge. It was completely silent, and the rest of the Himalaya stretched out around me—a powerful presence of glowing mountains rippling off into the distance. Shortly after that, we topped out onto the summit ridge, with a pre-dawn glow electrifying the massive silhouettes of Everest, Lhotse and Nupse. I'll not forget their tangible presence for a long time.

What are you up to when you’re not climbing?
When I'm not climbing, I am often skiing in the winter. In the summer, I’m surfing, riding my mountain bike or doing yoga. I also love to write, dance and play music.

Any training advice or suggestions?
Climb because you love it. Train because it is fun. Before you know it, your dreams will come.

Who or what inspires you?
The Dalai Lama, my husband Rich Marshall and my female friends who are just so competent, fun and accomplished.

How do you see climbing evolving in the next five years?
I think that hard bouldering will continue to influence climbing at the higher grades. This will flow over into all disciplines—hard cracks, ice and mixed, etc.

What do you think about the 5.15 grade?
Far too limiting.

Care to comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw on sport routes or pre-placed gear on trad routes, chipping/comfortizing holds, glue vs. no glue:
We gain nothing by trying to make the cliff like the gym. You can make your own rules out there, but be sure you are not affecting other people by bringing the level of the climb down to your own level, by degrading the environment, by generally thinking that you have a right to change/make nature.

Do you have any vices and what are they?
I love french fries and ice cream. I also can enjoy a beer after a big day. Helps me get through winter without losing too much weight.

Any near death experiences?
I probably was completely oblivious...no really... sure—I have been narrowly missed by avalanches, have had close calls on aid walls and have been hit in the face by a rock in the Karakoram.

Are you a fan of climbing history? Explain?
I like to hear good stories, but I am not too engrossed in what other people (or myself) do. Climbing is a recreation, not a religion, although, perhaps I have been closest to Nirvana through my hardships and personal triumphs.

What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
I am a lifer. I will continue to seek experiences that ask me to dig deep as a person, to learn and to be humbled.